In recent years, we have heard more and more about personalization in beauty care. And when choosing care products and salon procedures, we focus only on an individual program drawn up by a specialist. However, when choosing the necessary procedures, cosmetologists still use a table with types of skin aging. There are four types - fatigued, deformed, wrinkled, and muscular. Usually our face is a set of several types at once, but always with the dominance of one. How to determine the dominant type and, based on it, adjust home and salon care, BeautyHack.ru learned from Svetlana Eremenko, a dermatologist and cosmetologist of the TsIDK network of clinics.
dermatologist, cosmetologist of the CIDK network of clinics
- Due to genetic characteristics and racial mixing, most often we have a mixed morphotype, but with a predominance of one. Knowing your type is important and necessary in order to adjust home and salon care and, thereby, slow down age-related changes, which are especially noticeable after 40. There are several characteristics corresponding to each type: skin condition, features of the structure of the face and its problem areas. And a competent specialist can determine all this not only at the first stages of aging, but also after 18-20 years. After all, the sooner the correct care program is selected, the less age-related changes the skin will undergo.
Example: Cameron Diaz
Occurs in 80% of people. The first signs of age-related changes begin at the corners of the eyes, and then slowly make themselves felt on the cheeks and in the cheekbones. It is quite easy to slow down age-related changes with home care and salon treatments.
How to recognize?
- normal or combination skin;
- age-related prolapse of soft tissues;
- “Crow's feet” at the eyelids, nasolabial folds, age lines on the forehead, emaciation of the cheeks and zygomatic zone.
Home care for tired types of aging should definitely include antioxidant serums and masks. A good solution for the skin will be products containing vitamins A, C and E, as well as algae extracts.
1) Botulinum toxin. The first thing that can be removed with this procedure is crow's feet and glabellar wrinkles. Fillers can also provide additional support for the cheeks and cheekbones.
2) Biorevitalization works with the quality of the skin. Ultrasound of the Altera apparatus thickens and improves the skin of the face, and also reduces the volume of subcutaneous fat.
3) Chemical peels will help to remove dead cells of the surface layer of the skin, after which the processes of renewal and regeneration of a new surface layer of the skin take place.
4) Laser resurfacing is used to correct visible skin imperfections using a laser.
5) Phototherapy - a technology that acts with beams of ultraviolet and infrared radiation on tissues, has a number of beneficial effects: lifting, skin regeneration, increasing vitamin D.
Example: Catherine Deneuve
Usually occurs in overweight people with a tendency to edema. It is quite difficult to correct, but with regular care from a young age, age-related changes can be significantly slowed down.
How to recognize?
- combination or oily skin;
- overweight with a pronounced double chin area;
- flews, sagging in the lower part of the face, overhanging of the nasolabial fold;
- frequent swelling.
For the deformation-edematous type, it is necessary to use anti-couperous creams and serums, as well as agents that help strengthen the vascular wall and improve microcirculation. Look for ingredients such as arnica and horse chestnut extract, vitamins K, P and C, and seaweed.
1) First of all, procedures are suitable for correcting the oval of the face, creating a lifting effect and preventing puffiness. Mesotherapeutic cocktails are especially good at this, helping to improve lymph flow or reduce the amount of subcutaneous fat.
2) Ulthera therapy is a popular hardware technique aimed at reducing fatty deposits in difficult areas.
3) Microcurrent therapy affects the synthesis of proteins and lipids. The procedure will relieve wrinkles and double chin, restore muscle tone, and help correct the oval of the face.
4) Facial massage is the simplest, but really effective program that activates metabolism, improves blood circulation, restores the tone of facial muscles.
5) Thread lifting is a mesotherapeutic procedure that involves puncturing the skin and introducing synthetic or metal threads. This method is used to lift certain areas of the face that are especially prone to deformation with aging.
6) Phototherapy with ultraviolet and infrared radiation will provide lifting, skin regeneration, increase in vitamin D.
Fine wrinkled morphotype
Example: Audrey Hepburn
Quite rare in Russia, more common in Europe. It is characteristic of people with a lean physique, a small amount of subcutaneous fat, with thin skin and small facial features. Despite the appearance of wrinkles, the contour of the face is usually preserved.
How to recognize?
- dry or dehydrated skin;
- the first sign is the appearance of a fine mesh of wrinkles, and then the formation of purse-string wrinkles at the lips and "crow's feet";
- increased pigmentation.
For fine wrinkled aging, the care should include products that strengthen the lipid barrier of the skin and are aimed at retaining moisture. An emulsion for gentle face cleansing, nourishing serums, creams with peptides to smooth mimic wrinkles, moisturizing masks - all these products should be used regularly in morning and evening care.
1) Complex care, which involves not only skin correction, but also biorevitalization, interaction with pigments. For example, IPL programs and phototherapy are suitable.
2) RF lifting on the Scarlet RF apparatus is great for people with fine wrinkled skin. The microneedle apparatus does not injure the skin, removes fine wrinkles pointwise, and has a lifting effect. The result is visible after the first procedure.
3) The cosmetic correction can also include the aforementioned laser peels, botulinum therapy and superficial wrinkle correction with soft fillers based on hyaluronic acid.
Muscular (muscular) morphotype
Example: Cindy Crawford
More typical for the Asian type of face, but it can also be found in our zone, in Europe. It is considered the most favorable type of aging, since due to the high cheekbones, the oval of the face does not sag, wrinkles are practically invisible or can be quickly corrected with the help of proper care. Owners of this type can forget about the signs of aging for a long time, often look younger than their age.
How to recognize?
- normal or combination skin;
- sharp pronounced angles of the lower jaw;
- tendency to pigmentation;
- manifestation of fatigue in the form of circles under the eyes.
The owners of the muscular morphotype often face the appearance of pigmentation. Exfoliating and whitening products with retinol and vitamin C can help minimize this problem. Moisturizers and nourishing products are also a good complement to your skincare routine. Particular attention should be paid to the area around the eyes: eye creams with a cooling roller and patches are excellent options.
1) Biorevitalization and plasma therapy are ideal for improving metabolic processes and normalizing pigment production.
2) Botulinum toxin injections will help to minimize the manifestations of masticatory muscle hypertonicity. Thanks to the procedures, the face will lose its angularity and gain smooth transitions. But the use of fillers for the muscular type is used in rare cases.
3) Facial massage and microcurrent therapy will slow down the aging process and make the complexion more even and radiant.
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