In Quarantine, Many Have Finally Dismantled Their Wardrobes: How The Pandemic Has Made Luxury Second-hand Stores In Demand Among Customers And Premium Brands

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Video: In Quarantine, Many Have Finally Dismantled Their Wardrobes: How The Pandemic Has Made Luxury Second-hand Stores In Demand Among Customers And Premium Brands

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Video: Fast Fashion and Racial Capitalism 2023, February
In Quarantine, Many Have Finally Dismantled Their Wardrobes: How The Pandemic Has Made Luxury Second-hand Stores In Demand Among Customers And Premium Brands
In Quarantine, Many Have Finally Dismantled Their Wardrobes: How The Pandemic Has Made Luxury Second-hand Stores In Demand Among Customers And Premium Brands
Anonim

It looks like 2020 will be the beginning of a "golden age" for used items. Popularization worked - conscious consumption had never been talked about so often. Jane Fonda, who loves shopping, has promised that she will no longer buy a new dress or suit to reduce her carbon footprint. Emma Watson began to tell in an interview that she has worn some outfits for 15 years and regularly gives old ones for sale. With the suggestion of Greta Thunberg, even a whole movement Köpskam appeared - “Ashamed to buy”. Its members all over the world give a second life to clothes, repair old ones, alter them, change with friends.

However, the main contribution to the resale was made by the pandemic. From a niche segment, second-hand has become a gigantic profitable industry. According to the Moscow Credit Bank, in June, revenue from trade in second-hand things increased by 40% compared to last year. Until recently, on average, 2,2 thousand rubles were left in such stores. But during self-isolation, the check increased to 4.2-4.7 thousand. And, as analysts of the GlobalData Retail corporation predict, over the next 5 years the global online resale market will grow by a record 414%.

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Caring for the planet or saving?

Are old Fendi wallets or Valentino dresses hunted just for the environmental impact of garment factories? Of course not. Only 13% are guided by the ideas of responsible consumption. Another 30% love to find unique items in the resale store. The majority, 42%, are attracted by the affordable price. Such statistics are provided by the online shopping platform Farfetch, which sells not only trendy, but also vintage goods, as well as archive luxury bags of its customers. Vestiaire Collective has even more impressive data - the international network "second-hand", carefully rejecting fakes and spoiled things. 96% of his customers prefer used items because they don't want to overpay. And it's not just Gen Z and millennials, although they are, of course, the majority: 54% and 48%, respectively. But even baby boomers and generations Xthose who have accounts in Swiss banks take luxury goods from the secondary market. Tired of buying trench coats or ties for the price of an airplane wing. In addition, otherwise, many things from old collections simply cannot be obtained: some premium brands burn them. Allegedly, the appearance of a luxury brand in discounters and stocks is a blow to prestige and reputation.

Buying second-hand items saves 1kg of industrial waste, saves 3,040 liters of water and cuts 22kg of carbon dioxide emissions (Farfetch)

Stella McCartney herself, a top designer, said that if a truck with things is destroyed every second in the world, then she is the main supporter of the reuse of clothes. And, by the way, she supported her word with deed - she was one of the first in the industry to cooperate with the reseller The RealReal. The idea is: do you sell her brand items on the platform? Keep a $ 100 coupon. It can be used the next time you shop at a boutique or brand website.

Change of priorities

Of course, the bulk of luxury second-hand stores is in the West. But in Russia, too, they have long ceased to associate reselling with huge premises, in which mountains of stretched knitwear and prices per kilogram. The stars regularly brag about how they buy Chanel tweed jackets or classic Levi's jeans, made according to old patterns, from similar stores. The idea that it is better to buy one thing, but of high quality, than ten disposables, is getting deeper and deeper rooted in the mind.

avatar Helen Volova
avatar Helen Volova

Helen Volova

image stylist

Many well-known women's clubs, business forums with the participation of successful ladies, fashion lectures began to touch on this topic from the inside. And by his own example, demonstrate how the cycle of conscious purchases is formed. Indeed, at some point the market became overcrowded, it became difficult for many girls to navigate the variety of products. In pursuit of trends and relevance, the number of "closet" purchases began to increase. I hope that now, after the quarantine, we will not deny ourselves shopping, but we will begin to approach this issue in more detail and anxiously. Now the focus will shift towards rational shopping and prioritization into a qualitative rather than a quantitative equivalent.

Over 60% of luxury items for sale are brand new or have no visible wear marks. (Boston Consulting Group)

In one of the world's most famous "commission shops" - the American startup The RealReal - they relied on a guarantee of authenticity. And they did not lose. Experts check every thing there. They use X-ray machines, brand databases and instruments to determine the naturalness of gemstones. Some Russian resellers reject counterfeit products just as carefully. For example, the Buy By Me platform, which sells premium and luxury clothing, has its own multi-brand specialist, as well as a team of professional authenticators, including freelance experts and consultants (read more here).

avatar Victoria Klinovskaya
avatar Victoria Klinovskaya

Victoria Klinovskaya

founder of Buy By Me platform

8 years ago, when we first started, there was a completely different perception of this segment, certain prejudices among customers. Now everything has changed. In my opinion, this is due to trends in responsible consumption. People are changing their own consumer habits and are turning their purchasing power in favor of commission and vintage stores. Customers are interested in purchasing up-to-date clothes and do not lose sight of first-line branded goods, as well as products of diffuse brands and Russian designers. And by the way, the quarantine contributed to an increase in interest. During this period, our store did not work for about two months, but the online site did function. And we made an unprecedented promotion for our brand - we offered a 15% discount on all products, it was valid for the entire lockdown period. That's a lot for a thrift store.Plus, we promoted things on Instagram, made thematic selections: today is YSL day, tomorrow - Chanel, mixed photos of certain bags with pictures from Pinterest or celebrity bows. It all worked very well, the demand was huge. The same thing, judging by the news, happened with other resellers. By the way, at this time they began not only to buy, but also to sell more often. Our committees - people who hand over things to us - being at home, finally dismantled the cupboards, put aside what they no longer need. And thanks to this, we have a lot of interesting clothes and accessories. So, I think the pandemic will make everyone think even more about sustainable consumption, sustainable development. And in the near future, this crisis will turn into only positive changes for our sphere.tomorrow - Chanel, mixed photos of certain bags with pics from Pinterest or celebrity bows. It all worked very well, the demand was huge. The same thing, judging by the news, happened with other resellers. By the way, at this time they began not only to buy, but also to sell more often. Our committees - people who hand over things to us - being at home, finally dismantled the cupboards, put aside what they no longer need. And thanks to this, we have a lot of interesting clothes and accessories. So, I think the pandemic will make everyone think even more about sustainable consumption, sustainable development. And in the near future, this crisis will turn into only positive changes for our sphere.tomorrow - Chanel, mixed photos of certain bags with pics from Pinterest or celebrity bows. It all worked very well, the demand was huge. The same thing, judging by the news, happened with other resellers. By the way, at this time they began not only to buy, but also to sell more often. Our committees - people who hand over things to us - being at home, finally dismantled the cupboards, put aside what they no longer need. And thanks to this, we have a lot of interesting clothes and accessories. So, I think the pandemic will make everyone think even more about sustainable consumption, sustainable development. And in the near future, this crisis will turn into only positive changes for our sphere.the demand was huge. The same thing, judging by the news, happened with other resellers. By the way, at this time they began not only to buy, but also to sell more often. Our committees - people who hand over things to us - being at home, finally dismantled the cupboards, put aside what they no longer need. And thanks to this, we have a lot of interesting clothes and accessories. So, I think the pandemic will make everyone think even more about sustainable consumption, sustainable development. And in the near future, this crisis will turn into only positive changes for our sphere.the demand was huge. The same thing, judging by the news, happened with other resellers. By the way, at this time they began not only to buy, but also to sell more often. Our committees - people who hand over things to us - being at home, finally dismantled the cupboards, put aside what they no longer need. And thanks to this, we have a lot of interesting clothes and accessories. So, I think the pandemic will make everyone think even more about sustainable consumption, sustainable development. And in the near future, this crisis will turn into only positive changes for our sphere.And thanks to this, we have a lot of interesting clothes and accessories. So, I think the pandemic will make everyone think even more about sustainable consumption, sustainable development. And in the near future, this crisis will turn into only positive changes for our sphere.And thanks to this, we have a lot of interesting clothes and accessories. So, I think the pandemic will make everyone think even more about sustainable consumption, sustainable development. And in the near future, this crisis will turn into only positive changes for our sphere.

Demand for middle-segment second-hand goods has also grown. There is also excitement in Relove Moscow, a young project that has just turned six months old. Clients who miss going out are actively looking for things there from both Russian brands, like Ushatava, 12storeez, Vatnique, and Western ones, like Jil Sander, Sandro, See by Chloe.

By the way, the brands themselves now rely on commissions. Due to the crisis, a shortage of collections is expected in the fall, and the purchasing power will sag. Therefore, many brands that recently spoke negatively about reselling have now begun to supply their goods to second-hand stores. And this is just the beginning. According to Fashion Consulting Group forecasts, the industry will gain a significant market share within 10 years. About 20% of the wardrobe of millennials born after 1981 will consist of second-hand items. Perhaps it is worth starting to form it now.

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