Leading makeup artists on how to prepare your skin for make-up at home, choose a foundation, apply shadows and emphasize the shape of your lips!
Skin cleansing and toning
Tim Leo, makeup artist, @timaleo:
High-quality makeup is impossible without competent skin cleansing. Care products should be selected by a beautician.
After washing, be sure to wipe your face with a toner to restore the pH balance of the skin. My choice is the tonic of the Korean brand Secret Key, which contains 15% hyaluronic acid and fruit acids. The tonic refreshes the skin, "heals" the complexion.
Moisturizing the skin
Alena Lapina, makeup artist, creator of the Art'Up studio, @lapinamakeup:
It is important to properly moisturize your skin. In winter, the air is drier, and air conditioners and radiators work in the premises, therefore, without thorough humidification, anywhere! But don't apply moisturizer right before going outside. Due to the large amount of water in the composition, the product will have the opposite effect. Use it at least 40 minutes before leaving the house.
For example, in winter I apply a moisturizer only at night, and a nourishing cream in the morning. In the summer - the opposite scheme. My favorites right now are Crème Riche Hydratante by Embryolisse and Face Finishing Moisturizer by Perricone MD. The former is very helpful if you have dry, dehydrated skin, while the latter adds a healthy glow.
I love the oil primer based on 10 Perfect Skin herbs of the Russian brand Promakeup Laboratory, it was created by professional makeup artists. This is the remedy that surprises me every time. Semi-drying oils in the composition are partially absorbed (and care for the skin), partially work as a base for foundation.
There is a ball inside the bubble that you can shake up - shining particles will appear.
Yuri Stolyarov, star makeup artist, official makeup artist of Maybelline New-York in Russia, @stolyarovyuriy:
Apply tone and concealer after painting your eyes and brows. Eyes, eyebrows, eyelashes first, and only then concealer and tone. Firstly, it is easy to remove decorative cosmetics from clean skin, and secondly, this way you can see better how much tone is really needed.
Another ingenious hack is to apply gel patches under your eyes while applying eye shadow and coloring your lashes. This is especially true for dark dry eyeshadows - their particles can crumble, but then you simply remove the patches, dab your face with a napkin - and you're done! Plus, the patches will prepare the skin for makeup and you will need significantly less concealer.
Nati Lambant, makeup artist, hair stylist, @natilambant:
Use a creamy eye shadow as a base. Apply dry textures on top. Ideally, both funds are of the same tone (or have a similar subtone). This trick will make the color richer and last longer. It is not necessary to use funds from the premium segment in both cases. H&M has a great budget alternative to “base” cream eyeshadow.
Ernest Muntaniol, Leading Makeup Artist for Chanel in Russia, Ukraine and Kazakhstan, @ernest_muntaniol:
Green eyes are emphasized by brown, maroon, purple, dark bronze, brick shades.
Blue eyes need colors that will not distort the color of the iris and help make it brighter. Cool browns, dark gray, steel, black, maroon, brown-purple, dark wine shades will do.
For gray eyes, try not to use shades of eyeshadow that completely repeat the color scheme of the iris. I recommend the silver-steel ones: it is the metallic sheen that gives gray eyes a shine effect. Dark blue, silver-blue, black, lilac-lilac shadows are also suitable.
For brown eyes, the largest palette is dark brown, purple, burgundy, dark green, emerald, and all shades of blue. Only some light colors (for example, lilac) may not work.
For blue eyes, I recommend bluish-gray, gray, cold lilac, brown, maroon, black, plum, dark blue shadows.
Olga Tomina, independent makeup artist, @tominamakeup:
When the makeup is concentrated in the upper part of the eye, it literally rises to the forehead - this breaks the symmetry of the face. Be sure to paint over the lower eyelid with shadows. It is important that everything is harmonious, and the eyes remain in place.
A common mistake of girls: darkening the outer corner of the eye. The result is narrow "fox" eyes. But the illuminated inner corners make the look fresh and radiant.
Read about how to make arrows correctly here.
In winter, in our latitudes, mascara often fails: it flows and is imprinted under the eyes. Of course, you can use a waterproof product, but I don't really like it in my daily makeup. I advise you to pay attention to the so-called Sensai 38C thermo-ink. It can only be washed off with water above 38 ° C. Hydrophilic oil and micellar water won't help you.
My personal favorite is Lancôme Hypnose Volume-a-porter mascara. It does not smudge, does not leave prints. And when washing it rolls down in lumps from the eyelashes.
Olga Romanova, makeup artist, creator of the Romanovamakeup brand, @romanovamakeup:
Eyelashes can and should be painted in 2-3 layers, but between "approaches" you need to make an interval - no more than 10 seconds. The mascara should only dry out a little, but if it dries completely and you start to layering the product, you will get the effect of untidy, glued eyelashes.
If I need volume and lengthening, I always use false eyelashes. They can be divided into 3 types: elongated at the outer corner of the eye (to create a cat-eye effect), elongated in the middle (we will get the so-called "doll eye") and beams. The latter are the most difficult to use, but I noticed that somewhere around 80% of girls cope with both bunches and false eyelashes without any outside help at home.
Alexandra Kirienko, independent makeup artist, @aleksandrakirienko:
Now the trend is for careless, voluminous, soft eyebrows. If yours are not thick, first go through the tinting gel - to give the eyebrows volume and color. Then take a pencil or shadows - they will help fill in the gaps. The eyebrows can be more or less defined, but still leave some haze and a small space between the hairs.
The darkest color should be at the height of the arch and go to the tip. Make the beginning weightless. For girls who have hairs at the beginning of their eyebrows, I recommend not painting them at all - step back a centimeter and move from the dais to the tip.
For eyebrows, I like Anastasia Beverly Hills' DipBrow lipstick: very long-lasting and available in a large number of shades - you will definitely find yours.
Do not apply a thick layer of concealer under the eyes, otherwise it will roll off into wrinkles. The coating should be very thin and delicate. To do this, I use my fingers or a fluffy brush - choose the tool that is convenient for you personally and allows you to blend the product as discreetly as possible, while hiding the bruises.
If you feel like one coat is not enough, wait for it to set and then apply a second coat on top by hammering in concealer with your fingers or a brush. It is clear that not all products can be easily layered, so I use the High Precision Retouch Concealer by Giorgio Armani. It is very lightweight, available in four shades and, when applied consistently, is completely invisible on the skin.
Nika Kislyak, makeup artist, @nikakislyak:
When choosing a tone, trying it on the back of your hand, note that it should not be too dense and completely matte. You don't need a plaster coat. Choose light and transparent textures with reflective particles.
The foundation evens out the complexion, muffles skin imperfections and redness, but it is not intended to “cover up” all imperfections. For this, a denser and more pigmented product is intended - a concealer. He will point out any problematic moments.
Better to apply the tone with a brush or sponge. Duofiber (a brush made of two piles - natural and synthetic, most often black and white, of different lengths) is suitable for those who have vellus hair or large pores on their face. The brush creates a light, weightless coverage, stretches the tone well.
For problem skin with rashes, a sponge is more suitable. They can stretch the tone semi-transparently, and in areas requiring additional attention, apply with hammering movements.
I'm a fan of Armani foundations, especially Luminous Silk. This is a veil that, even when applied tightly with a sponge, looks light and natural on the skin. By the way, even if you take the matte and densest tone of the Armani brand, it still will not look like a mask on your face. It's all about quality pigments and the right reflective particles. Armani products are loved by makeup artists all over the world, and this is absolutely justified. Read about the other best foundations of 2018 here.
If you are using cushion
Victoria Moiseeva, independent makeup artist, @koffka_the_cat:
The first contact of the cushion and the pad gives the greatest amount of the product - it must be distributed to the T-zone, where it is needed in the greatest amount. Then it is necessary to apply to the area under the eyes and around the nose and only then to the jaw. Many girls start with the latter, and as a result, their chin is overtoned, and there is not enough money on the upper part of the face. Ideally, the following formula is important for natural makeup: more product per T-zone and less per periphery.
I really like it when the blush is matched to the lipstick. At the same time, it is not necessary to have a dozen blush in your home cosmetic bag. It is enough to apply lipstick on your hand, warm it up with your fingers and transfer the pigment to the apples of your cheeks with light movements, shading it well. For extra durability, these "blush" can be fixed with transparent powder. For example, Ultra HD from Make Up For Ever.
I use cream highlighters - only they can merge with the skin, creating the most natural effect. I have three favorites that I use on the set, and on the backstages of fashion shows, and in everyday life. For everyday life, I advise you to apply the highlighter to 5 zones: the inner corner of the eye, the upper part of the cheekbone, the space under the eyebrow, the center of the upper eyelid and the outline of the upper lip. It definitely looks beautiful and correct on everyone - the eyes seem to light up, beautiful highlights appear on the face, the skin looks fresh. Here are three of my favorite highlighters.
Irina Mitroshkina, independent makeup artist, co-owner of the Prive7 salon chain, @irina_mitroshkina:
Very often, girls forget to blot their lips with a napkin after applying lipstick. Even if you don't have anything at hand, you can run your finger over your lips after the first layer. Otherwise, the lipstick will not stick and will be imprinted on the teeth.
Of the most persistent, I can highlight LimeCrime and Vice Lipsticks from Urban Decay. When choosing shades, keep in mind: lilac lipsticks with a pink undertone emphasize the yellowness of the teeth. In order to visually whiten your teeth, opt for red and dark colors.
Girls who enlarge their lips try to emphasize the contour. Everything should be in moderation. If you've injected with fillers, your best friend is a neutral lipstick with no additional contours. You can highlight the checkmark above the upper lip with a highlighter.
If you have natural lips but want to make them look bigger, try contouring. I recommend natural pencils like The Flesh Tine Lip Liner by Kevin Aucoin in Medium. Easy to apply and blend. Doesn't dry lips - it contains jojoba oil. The main thing is to shade the contour, the borders should not be clear.