Dermatocosmetologist Viktoria Goncharuk spoke about the reasons for the formation of blackheads on the face, options for solving the problem and effective cosmetic procedures that help get rid of comedones.
Victoria Goncharuk
Dermatocosmetologist
Causal relationships
Black dots most often appear in the problem T-zone: on the nose, chin, cheeks. These areas contain many sebaceous glands that produce sebum. Excess sebum mixes with dead cells to form a "plug". Under the influence of O2, it oxidizes and darkens - this is how the mechanism for the formation of black dots looks like. In medicine, they are called comedones.
Comedones are open - black dots, and closed - white subcutaneous elements. They begin to form in puberty - from 12-13 years old.
This is due to hormonal changes in the body. With age, their number decreases due to a decrease in sebum secretion.
The most common reasons for the appearance: improper cleansing, comedogenic ingredients in cosmetics, hormonal disorders (an excess of testosterone is the cause of hypersecretion of the sebaceous glands and, as a result, the formation of blackheads), disruption of the gastrointestinal tract, changes in climatic conditions.
Non-comedogenic cosmetics and their composition
Incorrectly selected care products and decorative cosmetics can provoke the appearance of blackheads: too oily creams with a lot of oils in the composition, dense tonal bases without bactericidal ingredients. Cosmetics should not interfere with the "breathing" of the skin during the day and not clog the pores. But even if the bottle is marked "non-comedogenic", the face must be thoroughly cleansed at the end of the day - there are no tonal products that can be left overnight without consequences.
When choosing a foundation, pay attention to the composition. The most comedogenic components: emulsifiers - triglycerides (triglyceride), myristates (myristates), palmitates (palmitates), emollients - lanolin and its derivatives (Acetylated lanolin alcohol, Anhydrous lanolin, Acetlyated Lanolin, PEG 16 Lanolin).
Oils that cause clogged pores: cocoa butter, avocado, wheat germ, peach seed, flaxseed, soybean, avocado oil. Non-comedogenic oils include safflower, jojoba, corn oil, grape seed oil, mink oil, and sunflower oil.
Great if the foundation is water-based, lightweight and non-comedogenic.
How to get rid of black dots
You can't get rid of blackheads once and for all! Do not believe the empty promises of cosmetics manufacturers and some clinics. All procedures and treatments give a temporary effect and do not save you from the re-formation of comedones. With the right integrated approach, the risk of their reappearance can be minimized.
The first and most important step to beautiful and healthy skin is regular and proper cleansing.
Removing excess secretion of the sebaceous glands and dead cells will prevent the formation of comedones. For washing, products with glycolic acid in the composition are perfect - they provide a light peeling effect and chemically dissolve the secretion of the sebaceous gland, temporarily eliminating open comedones, for toning - with calendula, chamomile or aloe extract.
Once a week, at home, you can do surface peels with fruit acids (enzyme, ANA), in salons and medical centers, cosmetic aesthetics make almond, milk and other types of peels. They should be carried out by a specialist. Masks will quickly get rid of black spots on the nose (I repeat: remove it for a while). As a rule, they contain different types of clays, algae extracts, fruit acids, exfoliating particles.
Cosmetology treatments that fight comedones
Effective procedures that help get rid of blackheads: ultrasonic face cleansing, a course of superficial chemical peels. Median (retinol, trichloroacetic acid peels) are carried out only in the autumn-winter period.
An excellent result is shown by laser procedures that have a complex effect on the skin. For example, resurfacing without damaging the upper layer of the skin with Clear lift. In addition to the pronounced lifting effect, the procedure fights against enlarged pores and mimic wrinkles. The full course consists of 4-7 sessions.
For those who suffer from pigmentation, dilated vessels and pores, a course of phototherapy is recommended. During the procedure, pulsed pulse light is exposed to melanin, vascular oxyhemoglobin, collagen in the upper layers of the dermis. This improves the complexion and reduces the visible appearance of pores.
