She created looks at fashion shows for Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Valentino, from 1990 to 2000 worked as a makeup artist behind the scenes for Prada and Miu Miu, painted Celine Dion, Madonna, Sarah Jessica Parker. Pat McGrath is a beauty industry veteran who pioneered the makeup without makeup trend, taught us easy contouring and how to lighten skin from the inside out.
“If I was told when I was a teenager that I would be a great make-up artist, that I would write a beauty book for women of color, I would call you a false prophet,” Pat once said.
At one time, Pat had to face racism in the beauty industry. She was born in Northampton, England and was raised by her mother, Jean McGrath, who was a Jamaican immigrant. It was she who instilled in her daughter a love for the art of makeup and fashion. Pat has no specialized education, she just completed a basic art course at Northampton College.
In her youth, McGrath loved magazines, but always skipped pages about beauty, because the faces of the models did not look like her - the makeup products were not focused on the likes of Pat.
“When I was growing up, I always heard my Nigerian parents and their friends talk that this was not their country.”
Therefore, it never occurred to Pat that she could be a part of the beauty world, let alone manage changes and trends from within.
About school years
At school, Pat was laughed at, the teachers spoke to her slowly, as if English were not her first language. Pat recalls someone giggling because she looked like Kunta Quinte (a character from Alex Haley's Roots: A Saga of the American Family) who was taken from an African village and sold into slavery. In swimming lessons, she was a girl who "didn't need bandages for her hands because her rubber lips would have helped her not to drown."
About the turning point
As a teenager, Pat began to take an interest in cosmetics to get the attention of boys. She secretly took her lipsticks from her mother, put on makeup and ran to school, convinced that she was the epitome of sophistication.
One day Pat went to a local pharmacy with friends to see a new collection of cosmetics. While her friends were discussing their findings, everything she tried either left a yellowish tinge or just didn't appear on the skin. The pigments were not strong enough, but nevertheless Pat found a suitable one: it was called "Biscuit". She put it on her lips but looked weird with white chalk on her skin. She laughed to hide her embarrassment, but at that moment everything changed in her head.
"What if color matters?" Pat asked.
McGrath felt like she was at a party she was not invited to. On the one hand, it is inappropriate, and on the other, the queen of the holiday. This incident gave the first impetus to action in the beauty world.
After Pat saw Naomi Campbell on the pages of Vogue, she realized that the fashion and beauty industry was ready to accept new people, and this gave another hope.
In the 90s, Pat learned about MAC, which, with the release of the Studio Fix Foundation, changed the rules of the game. The brand was the first to create foundations for all skin tones. Pat admitted that it "changed the lives of black women who love beauty." It was the first cosmetic product that made Pat feel perfect.
About the first cosmetics
In his youth, acne was killing McGrath's confidence and Eve Lom became his first love - one of the few brands that knew how to deal with dark skin. In tandem with a mask from Dr. Sebagh and Institut Esthederm Pat moisturizers restored problem skin.
Young Pat painted all her girlfriends before parties. And at the age of 12, she began a full-fledged career, working with a make-up artist for Edward Enninful, fashion editor of iD Magazine. Then her love for bright colors and grunge diluted the boring catwalk trends. She was noticed by English and French VOGUE, W and Harper's Bazaar - Pat's works began to adorn gloss covers.
Pat also pays tribute to Gil Sunder and outrageous surrealist John Galliano, who invited her to work on the show. Pat's idea of using latex petals glued to their faces and vinyl lips in models' looks made the makeup artist famous in fashion circles.
In 1999, Pat already designed a cosmetics collection for Armani Beauty, and later became CEO of Procter and Gamble, responsible for the Max Factor color innovation.
About your cosmetics brand
The obsession with the beauty world makes Pat's work more exciting - the make-up artist has seen so many changes in skin care: the girls even applied cocoa powder to their faces, because they could not find the powder in the right shade. Now more and more brands are producing cosmetics for a wide range of skin tones. Pat launched Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection The System, a line of foundation that will help create radiant skin in 36 shades. The line is divided into several stages: the application of the Sublime Perfection moisturizing primer, the second - the Sublime Perfection Foundation. The final stage is Sublime Perfection Setting Powder, which gives the skin a darkening effect. The composition contains ceramides that strengthen the skin barrier with diamond dust. Their advantage is to smooth out imperfections and give the skin a healthy finish,while giving an average coating density.
The makeup artist created her brand in October 2015. Then the collection came out with gold sequins Gold 001, which all professional makeup artists loved. A limited edition of one thousand copies sold out in a matter of hours. Then there were Phantom 002 pigments, lip products in the form of satin lipsticks and Lust 004 tints, Skin Fetish 003 highlighter, eyeliner products and shimmery like mercury, Metalmorphasis 005 shadows, Dark Star 006 smokey eyes sets. the products are packaged in a plastic bag filled with sequins, as if interpreting that "there is something beautiful behind a beautiful cover."
About life hacks in makeup
Pat is considered a master of applique work. She also introduced the trend “no makeup look”, “makeup without makeup”. With light contouring. It creates the effect of thin skin, delicate shade, slightly with a blush, illuminating with a highlighter, as if it were glowing from within.
Text: Sofia Vorobyova
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