In
from and the Italians there too! Following colleagues from the fashion industry, the Dolce & Gabbana brand has released a body-positive collection for the first time. According to local patterns, these are things up to size 54, according to international ones - XXL.
The advertising campaign of the brand, as always, is distinguished by a special style. But this time - no corsets and tight dresses against the backdrop of lemon gardens and turquoise harbors. The new photographs are stylized to resemble "airy" canvases by Peter Rubens, a painter of the early 17th century. Baroque interiors, crystal chandeliers, silverware, canopies, pearls. And surrounded by all this luxury - semi-nude plus-size models. Among them - blogger and photographer Nima Benati, included in the list of the richest people under 30 according to the Italian Forbes, and Zach Miko - the first man with a non-standard figure to appear in the agency IMG Models.
And although the manufacturer of luxury clothing and accessories has always advocated curvy seductive forms (this is Italy, the birthplace of pizza and pasta!). But in fact, the maximum size in the standard line of the brand was 46.
About why Domenico and Stefano decided to keep up with the competitors and where fashion will lead us in the near future - in the column of the editor of BeautyHack Tatiana Chernikova.
Body positivity as a threat to business, health and popularity
“Bodypositive is already everywhere” - this is the slogan of the current that emerged in the late 60s. And it's true. Luxury fashion houses Michael Kors and Jean Paul Gaultier have released collections for clients far from the parameters of "90-60-90". Nike, Monique Lhuillier, Brandon Maxwell, Zac Posen and Rihanna's Savage x Fenty brand also sew clothes and lingerie according to special plus-size patterns.
The movement to adopt any look has become more than just a trend. Its ignorance threatens with billions of dollars in losses, scandals and petitions. As in the case of the main "supplier" of supermodels of the last decade - Victoria's Secret. Once inadvertently stating that the brand would never release girls with a different physique on the runway, the management almost lost business. The clients decided to boycott the intolerant company. The shares of the organization fell in value, top managers were forced to close dozens of stores, apologize and fire the head of the marketing department and casting director for statements "defaming the honor of the concern." But this was not enough. In January 2020, the bastion fell. VS launched the first collection of shaping underwear in sizes S to XL.
"A little earlier the glossy magazines learned their lesson - body-positive models began to appear on the covers of Vogue, Sports Illustrated and Cosmopolitan"
The Mattel Corporation, which makes Barbies and has made a name for itself by promoting unrealistically thin waist and large breasts, also made concessions. And she created dolls of a new format, with curvaceous shapes.
Ashley Graham, Kate Upton, Lizzie Miller, Sophie Dahl, Tara Lynn, Felicity Hayward, Maria Pavlyuk, Anastasia Kvitko … You may not know these girls by name, but most of them have definitely been seen on covers or in advertising campaigns.
The generation of ideal supermodels, like Cindy Crawford or Candice Swanepoel, who cause complexes in most consumers, has been replaced by the 155-kilogram Tess Holiday. “Hey, is there anything in between?” - I want to ask marketers and trendsetters.
Doctors sound the alarm and remind that obesity is included in the International Classification of Diseases under the code "E66". "It shortens life expectancy," nutritionists say. And their opponents, in response, sarcastically ask how the health of those who have acquired bulimia and anorexia due to previously imposed beauty standards are doing.
And even the main mouthpieces of body positivity face the unpleasant consequences of their ideology. Lina Dunham, director and star of the TV series Girls, was heavily criticized after losing weight. Fans accused her of hypocrisy and began to unsubscribe from her Instagram account in thousands. And this despite the fact that the 33-year-old actress clarified: she had to lose weight for the sake of health. We do not know, whether because of the pressure of society, or because of a malfunction in the body, but now Lina has returned to her previous form.
The same thing is now happening with Adele, who has built up 45 kilograms. Many fans believe that the singer has lost her zest and has become like everyone else.
Cyclical trends
Dolce and Gabbana recalled with their advertising campaign how fashion is looped. Is it worth worrying about excesses, adjusting to trends, if you know that all this is temporary? Remember how the engraving on Solomon's ring: "Everything passes" - "And this too will pass."
At the turn of the XVI-XVII centuries, puffy ladies with marble skin were considered the ideal. Then it was an indicator of wealth: only very wealthy people could afford not to work in the field under the scorching sun. No shyness, complete self-acceptance. All these nude models, posing for Titian and Rubens in the images of Venus and Danae, were not at all worried about cellulite or folds on the stomach. Doesn't it look like anything?
Industrialization has set a new direction. Many women were forced to work in two shifts in factories, to take care of children. We slept a little, ate a little. And they became a new standard: thin, emaciated, with bruises under the eyes, sunken cheeks and wrists that can be taken into a ring with two fingers. Then they were called "tubercular beauties."
In the 90s, almost a century later, when fashion turned around its axis, a more scandalous definition appeared. "Heroin Chic". Its most prominent representative - model Kate Moss - also introduced the trend towards androgyny.
Designers are now trying to do this by choosing a genderless course. Gucci releases men in doll dresses on the catwalk and calls masculinity toxic. Burberry, Yves Saint Laurent and ASOS sew asexual collections. And the same Mattel also makes gender neutral dolls. Let your kids decide if Barbie is a boy or a girl.
At the same time, only 40 years ago there was a cult of the body and sexuality. The 80s are considered a time of aerobics and shaping craze. Slim waist, two-stripe abs and slender legs - fitness guru Jane Fonda set a new direction. Her video tutorials and exercise books were swept off the shelves, like … Yes, just like the programs of the champion of Russia in body fitness Ekaterina Usmanova are now being bought up.
It seems that the next curtsy will be towards the 2000s. Low waist and crop tops, neckline and push-ups, a feminine figure, stilettos instead of "ugly sneakers", bright makeup to replace the now popular nude. I do not like? Well, it won't be long. Fashion continues to inherit trends from the past, taking dusty trends out of grandmother's chests. It just does it three times faster than before. Get ready: both "heroin chic" and outright sexuality will have time to remind of themselves.
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