After reading this article, you will be convinced that perfumery of all art forms is submissive. Including literature.
I have two great hobbies - books and perfume. Sometimes they intersect: in the books olfactory plots are dashingly twisted, as, for example, in Patrick Suskind's “Perfume”. And perfumers, in turn, compose compositions based on literary works, in honor of writers and book characters, but simply with the nostalgic smell of bookshelves and dusty libraries.
One of these new products is the Bibliotheque by Byredo. The owner of the brand of the brutal Swedish bearded man Ben Gorham can hardly be suspected of a love of literalism, he is better known as a basketball player and a model - but he released a perfume with a sugary-dusty smell of old volumes and crumbling bindings.
Another fresh one is Jo Malone's spring collection called The Bloomsbury Set Collection. It is dedicated to the British Bloomsbury Group, which included writers, artists and other representatives of the country's intellectual elite. All five fragrances of the collection have self-explanatory names - “Blue Hyacinth”, “Garden Lilies”, “Leather and Artemisia”, “Tobacco and Tangerine”, “Whiskey and Cedar”, which perfectly recreate the atmosphere of creative gatherings.
The more famous fragrances for and about book lovers are the famous Paper Passion, on which Karl Lagerfeld himself worked among others, and Paperback by Demeter. The first has a strong and tasty smell of an open volume and a bookcase varnish. The second one to one conveys the spirit of a reading room somewhere in a distant province: dry, quiet, even the pages do not rustle, because they have already frowned at the edges. Cozy.
If we start a perfumery-literary conversation, as it should be, with history, Guerlain was one of the first to raise the book theme. In 1909, the French writer and naval sailor Claude Farrer published the novel "Battle", and ten years later, the fruit chypre Guerlain Mitsouko appeared, named after the main character of the Japanese woman Yorisaka Mitsuko.
And the woody powdery Guerlain Vol de Nuit became the olfactory impression of the novel "Night Flight" by the French military (now a pilot) Antoine de Saint-Exupéry.
Parisian Majda Bekkali uses sculpture in each of her creations - just look at the bottles of her Sculptures Olfactives brand. But from time to time he turns to the literary genre. One of her bestsellers, Tendre Est La Nuit, with notes of immortelle, artemisia, and Chinese pepper, although it refers to Francis Scott Fitzgerald's novel Tender is the Night, is dedicated to his wife Zelda Fitzgerald, who became the prototype of the main character. And by the way, she had no less bright writing talent than her husband.
The second bestseller is a spicy resinous fragrance Mon Nom Est Rouge, which means "My name is red", made in honor of the novel of the same name by Turkish writer Orhan Pamuk. This novel is a "reverse detective story": the killer confesses to the crime at the very beginning, and the plot is built on making the reader the only witness (in other words, an accomplice). So is Majda: from the very beginning, it releases "killer" - sharp, prickly aldehydes mixed with tart ginger, to which a Turkish rose and a polyphonic chorus of spices in the form of coriander, cinnamon, cumin, cardamom will join a little later. In this aroma, some feel the hot, sharp metallic smell of freshly spilled blood, others - a noisy eastern city with minarets and the smells of coffee, honey and tobacco spilled in the air.
Meanwhile, the love of perfumers for literary characters by the wife of the Japanese admiral Mitsuko and the heroes of Pamuk is not limited. Sometimes whole brands are dedicated to them. Remember the heroes of which work lived in Verona, Italy? That's right, the warring clans of Montague and Capulet from the tragedy "Romeo and Juliet". So, since 2012, the perfume house Giulietta Capuleti has lived there, immortalizing the name of Shakespeare's heroine in its fragrances. The brown rectangular bottles are decorated with pendants with a gold dagger and a light feather. In a suede envelope - Juliet's letter. The names of the fragrances refer to youth and first love: the floral-spicy Ballo in Maschera with saffron and tuberose invites you to a celebration of life; Bugia Bianca with wormwood, mint, jasmine and cognac intoxicates;Ritorno Amaro with black currant, anise and frangipani hints at the depth of feelings and the bitterness of parting.
I almost forgot: the young heroine of the tragedy also has an alternative perfume interpretation. About ten years ago, the burning brunette Romano Ricci presented his perfume brand Guliette Has a Gun to the public, where Juliet intends to show everyone how to fight for love. Therefore, she took up arms, and the spirits bear names like Mad Madame, Gentlewoman, Citizen Queen.
If you love English literature, visit the Ravenscourt Apothecary website. Its founder, Russian photographer and perfumer Tatyana Kuznetsova, lives in London and composes natural perfumes in honor of the heroes of British works. For example, Alice in Wonderland is the scent of jasmine, tangerine and neroli; Dorian Gray, at first glance, smells harmlessly of gin, faithful and citrus; the brave shy Jane Eyre is dedicated to the composition of clary sage, rose and bergamot, and to her beloved mysterious Mr. Rochester - incense-spicy. And then there is the demonic Heathcliff from the Gothic novel Wuthering Heights by Emily Bronte, Elizabeth Bennett, and Mr. Darcy from Jane Austen's Pride and Prejudice.
Of course, the great "noses" pay tribute to the authors themselves. Thus, the French brand Histoires de Parfums has a whole series dedicated to literary figures. By the names of the fragrances, you can memorize, if not completely the biographies of the writers, then at least the year of their birth: 1804 George Sand, 1828 Jules Verne; 1873 Colette, 1899 Hemingway.
The Jardins d'Ecrivains brand pursues approximately the same goal - to tell about famous authors, and at the same time about the atmosphere in which they worked. If you believe their feelings, then in the office of George Sand (George perfume) coffee was not transferred, the room was covered with a tobacco spirit, and the wooden table was littered with papers.
And the workspace of Leo Tolstoy in the Yasnaya Polyana estate (scented candle Iasnaia Poliana le Jardin de Tolstoi) is a brutal mixture of dry wormwood, leather and turpentine scents.
It happens that the book and the fragrance are created at the same time. So, in 2012, the legendary French "nose" and the founder of the L'Artisan Parfumeur brand Bertrand Duchaufour and the Parisian blogger Denise Beaulieu (http://graindemusc.blogspot.ru) told an amazing story about how the Séville à l'Aube fragrance appeared: “Once Denise read me her story about how she spent her Easter holidays in Seville in her youth and had an affair there. She described the smells of orange groves, church service, and the cologne of the parishioners with incredible tangibility. So I released perfume, and Denise released The Perfume Lover. " Perfume
Sometimes, out of a passion for reading, completely revolutionary projects appear. This is how Frederic Malle, the grandson of the founder of Parfums Christian Dior, the nephew of the director Louis Malle, a representative of French bohemia, an art consultant, and a collector of contemporary art, opened his perfume publishing house. The packaging of Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle perfumes is decorated in the image and likeness of a book - the name of the author-perfumer, his portrait and annotation are indicated on a bright red dust jacket. “The design was inspired by books from Gallimard,” says Mull. “And I myself work as a publisher: perfumers compose - I design, publish and sell”. And it's doing great, to be honest.
Well, it would be logical to finish the story about intercultural relations on a lyrical note - with poetry. Their author is Montri Umavidjani, a translator and poet from Thailand. His daughter Pissara (Ploi) Umavidjani, a French perfumer of Thai origin, dedicated all five fragrances of her brand Parfums Dusita Paris to her father's work:
It's true that man
Should not be carried away by dreams;
But without that
What is life?
Text: Marina Syutaeva