Spring Flowers: The Best Scents Of March

Video: Spring Flowers: The Best Scents Of March

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Spring Flowers: The Best Scents Of March
Spring Flowers: The Best Scents Of March
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“She was carrying hideous, disturbing yellow flowers in her hands. The devil knows what their names are, but for some reason they are the first to appear in Moscow”, - the main character of the novel“The Master and Margarita”was annoyed by the bright yellow color of mimosa. Although how can you call disgusting fluffy balls that look like mini-suns? Spring comes with them. And the smell! Powdery sweet, with a warm honey tint and tart green bitterness.

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In perfumery, they use mimosa absolute (which is actually called silver acacia, obtained by the extraction method. One of the prettiest examples of perfumery mimosa is Les Infusions de Prada Mimosa perfume. The smell of yellow inflorescences is conveyed very naturally: moderate sweetness does not drown out the freshness of the spring wind and barely hatched bitter greenery.

Quite in the style of March 8 armfuls of shaggy branches, you smell Mimosa Puor Moi from L'Artisan Parfumeur, where the mimosa is green and cool, as if it had been lying on the balcony all night in a crisp transparent wrapper, waiting for it to be presented and put in a vase; Annick Goutal Le Mimosa - velvety, delicately yielding primacy (in vain) to fruity notes; Velvet Mimosa Bloom from Dolce & Gabbana, accompanied by citruses and an explosive start atypical for mimosa.

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In the fragrance Acacia of the Argentinean brand Fueguia 1833, besides mimosa, there is only a note of iris - so one can imagine the concentration of sugary powder per square meter of space after a couple of zips from the bottle. Along with iris, as well as peach, vanilla and wood, mimosa appears in Il Mio Segreto, Olibere - and don't look for any hint of greenery. Honey, pollen, almost candy-lollipops and Dzintars lipstick.

The main fetish of mimosomaniacs is Guerlain's Champs Elysees, the embodiment of the scent of spring, where mimosa was accompanied by lily of the valley and lilacs. Echoes of mimosa powder can be heard in the compositions Kanat and Ducalis by Angela Ciampagna. Its function here is to soften the salty iodine note, preventing the fragrances from turning into an icy shower of sea water. The newest composition with mimosa is Eau de Virginie by Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger. Here she is taken in the vise of the drug-flower tuberose and spices. The first to taste the fragrance will be the lucky ones who have visited the Exsence 2017 perfume exhibition in Milan.

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Few people think about how tulips smell. They are too beautiful and fragile - to admire, until the wet tight buds turned into shaggy, spreading single petals. Nevertheless, recreating the scent of tulips haunts perfumers and sympathizers. And the first olfactory incarnation that comes to mind is La Tulipe Byredo. This is the scent of a wide, fleshy tulip leaf, or a torn petal - fresh and clean to the point that it soon begins to resemble washing powder. Or an unfinished March snowdrift.

As for the origin of the tulip note, everything is complicated. In the sense that it is impossible to get oil or absolute from this flower. “The situation here is not the easiest,” says perfume chemist Matvey Yudov. - There are some characteristic substances that are interpreted more or less unambiguously. Cis-3-hexenol, for example, smells of green grass and mowed lawn without options. But more often, as in the situation with the tulip, this is not the case. Moreover, mixing the same substances in different proportions, you can get seemingly completely different flowers. A mono aroma is always a complex mixture, no simpler than an ordinary perfume composition. For tulips there is no such tulip or tulip, which is laid down - and that's it, tulip. There are options here, and you can get such a smell in different ways. The classic approach is:the profile of the tulip lies somewhere between lily and saffron, with pronounced notes of honey and tobacco. So there is nothing secret in creating a tulip, it is a matter of fantasy and good balance."

And here is the evidence. For example, among the two dozen notes of the Phathom V, BeauFort formula, there is no tulip, but there are juniper berries, tangerine, black currant, soil, thyme, lily, jasmine, ginger, cumin, black pepper, oak moss, salt, cedar. However, from the bottle it clearly smells of freshly cut juicy thick stems, which were quickly wrapped with wet gauze so that the bouquet would not wither on the way home from the market.

The Songe de Tulipe of the Italian brand Il Profumo, despite the name, has a peculiar tulip: a transparent green liquid does not ooze from it, a soft dusty aroma is emitted by black velvet pollen on the stamens.

Tulip is a frequent visitor in Bond No 9 fragrances, created in honor of the realities of New York. Before you think, “Well, you must! How is it?" - just remember how many beautiful tulips bloom in parks, on the streets and even on the dividing lanes of the Big Apple highways. Well then: High Line - freshly cut grass on the super-groomed lawn of a respectable American family; Chealsea Flowers is a conscientious floral scent, boring, like a round excellent student, and in general, like everything is too correct; Madison Square Park - deliberately fresh, on the shaky border with the chemical, the smell of flowering trees and flower beds.

Two more spring flowers, whose scent is obtained synthetically, are lily of the valley and lilac. It is possible to produce lilac oil, but it is costly: no more than a liter of three tens of millions of flowers. “Lilac is one of the first flowers whose scent was learned to be synthesized in the laboratory,” says Matvey Yudov. "The classic lilac accord, invented about a hundred years ago, was based on gamma terpineol, heliotropin and cinnamic alcohol."

The smell of lilac is persistent, heavy, powdery, with noticeable bitterness (it is given by hydrocyanic acid). The most spring lilac - Decou-Vert from Laboratorio Olfattivo, smells immediately of flowers, leaves, branches. The En Passant bottle by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle contains a whole bush of white lilacs. Inflorescences are wet, in drops of rain. A few branches are broken, so they smell especially bitter. Such is the taste of a chewed "happy" five-leafed flower.

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Do not ignore the budget lilac perfume. Yves Rocher Lilas Mauve - sweet powder, as if someone had blown into a round vintage powder, and a cloud of fragrant pink dust hung in the air. Lilac " Romance" from the " Gardens of Temptation" line by Brocard is a more than realistic still life with a bouquet of lilacs on a summer terrace on a sunny day.

As for the lily of the valley, the classic of the genre is the legendary Diorissimo, released by Christian Dior in 1956 and an instant hit. Here is what the British perfume expert Lizzie Ostrom writes about him in the book “Perfume. The history of the twentieth century fragrances ":" Diorissimo is the leading spring fragrance, transparent like chiffon, a cross between soap and plant sap. This scent complements the sprouting bulbs, morning wet grass and the chirping of birds. He can be called beautiful and sensible, he is completely non-defiant."

The most well-deserved scent of lily of the valley is Guerlain Le Muguet. It was created by Jacques Guerlain in 1908 and dedicated to the French tradition of celebrating Lily of the Valley Day on May 1. A tart green white-flowered note of lily of the valley in the composition was accompanied by lemon, freesia, iris, ylang-ylang. After 90 years, Jean-Paul Guerlain slightly changed the formula (bergamot, rose, lilac, jasmine, musk, sandalwood), and since 2006 Le Muguet has been sold only once a year - on the first day of May. True, an exception was made for Russia and the sale was postponed to April 20, given the love of our fellow citizens to celebrate the May holidays away from boutiques, in nature.

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Lily of the Valley from Demeter wins the nomination "the most uncompromising lily of the valley" - a ringing, unalloyed scent of flowers as if molded from wax on a thin green stem. The second contender for the honorary title is Mughetto of the Florentine brand Santa Maria Novella, a thick bouquet tied with a thread, from which the palm will then smell of harsh greenery for a long time.

Sometimes lily of the valley behaves atypically, and a prime example is Muguet Porcelaine from the Hermes Hermessence line. “There is not enough classic lily of the valley here. Watercolors, greenery, freshness, a spring icy stream, hedione, a creak of purity and a freshly cut young zucchini,”perfume critic Lyubov Berlyanskaya writes about the fragrance in her blog Parfantasy. Vegetable lily of the valley? Wow. Another interesting one is Bouquet Romantique by Mimmina Flower, where lily of the valley persistently breaks through the viscosity of strawberries, rubbed with sugar. And Ramon Molvisar Elements 5 - this lily of the valley will hit the olfactory receptors in the first seconds, and then it will be absorbed by the moist soil, on which mint grows and dry needles lie.

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Rather collect the bouquet.

Text: Marina Syutaeva

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