In the past few years, eco-cosmetics have been breaking all records in popularity. Even some well-known brands have started producing products with natural ingredients. In order not to fall for the marketing trick and choose a really high-quality product, you should carefully read the label. Katerina Karpova, creator of the Pure Love natural cosmetics brand, told BeautyHack.ru which names to look for in herbal creams and serums.
- In advertising for beauty care products, they often rely on the uniqueness of the ingredients. In the description of the new product, you have probably heard more than once about “magic extracts from exotic flowers and plants,” says Katerina. - The task of marketers is to make you believe that the formula of the cream you are about to buy has exceptional properties. And it's easier to do this through a story about the same colors that everyone has heard, than about complex chemical compounds. Indeed, among ordinary consumers, there are few chemists who will be able to appreciate the obscure and difficult to pronounce names.
But if you are really interested in the composition of the cosmetics that you use, if the presence of really active and working ingredients in it matters to you, I advise you to pay attention to the list below.
Katerina Karpova
creator of the natural cosmetics brand Pure Love
Probiotics (Inulin, Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, Lactobacillus, Bifida Ferment Lysate)
Bifidobacteria, lysates, inulin and other "live bacteria". Do you think they are useful only in yoghurts and kefirs? The use of probiotics is considered one of the most promising trends in the field of cosmetology! The composition of bifidobacteria contains a high content of B vitamins, which are necessary for healthy skin and hair. But the most important thing is that they normalize the natural microflora of the epidermis and block the development of pathogenic bacteria. If you regularly experience various inflammations or rashes on your face, pay attention to the presence of this particular component in the cream.
Where is it used? It is an ideal cosmetic ingredient for problematic, sensitive and dry skin care. Probiotics are essential to treat all types of acne, breakouts, and irritations.
Trehalose (Trehalose)
Natural polysaccharide found in beneficial bacteria, fungi and algae. The fashion for it originated in Asia, it is most often found in Japanese cosmetics. Trehalose has amazing moisturizing properties and synergistic with other ingredients like hyaluronic acid can double the moisturizing effect of the cream! Also, this component has a high antioxidant potential, and it can work as a "conductor" of other active substances in the deep layers of the skin. And one more additional property: it suppresses unpleasant skin odors.
Where is it used? In moisturizing creams for face and body, including in winter lines. When the temperature drops, trehalose prevents the formation of crystals in water, therefore it is excellent for cosmetics designed for use at sub-zero temperatures. Moisturizing is essential not only for the beauty of the skin, but also for the health of the hair. Sprays and foams, which contain trehalose, perfectly protect hair during hot styling with a hairdryer and irons. And, of course, this component is indispensable in the creation of natural antiperspirants!
Lecithin
A plant component that is extracted from soybeans (less often, lecithin from eggs is used). Contains a large amount of linoleic fatty acid, which is actively involved in the regeneration of the stratum corneum. Lecithin has anti-inflammatory properties, regulates the sebaceous glands, and also helps other components of the cosmetic to overcome the barrier of the stratum corneum.
Where is it used? In the formulations of anti-aging, regenerating and regeneration-accelerating cosmetics. It is also found in the formulas of serums and creams for problem skin and in professional lines designed for use after peels and other aggressive cosmetic procedures.
Polyunsaturated fatty acids (Essential Fatty Acids or EFA for short)
For example, essential linolenic fatty acids, which are found in rosehip, hemp, black currant, evening primrose, borage oil. They are called irreplaceable because they are not synthesized by the human body, and we can receive them only from the outside. Such oils remove inflammation, relieve itching, irritation and soothe the skin. Unfortunately, they are chemically very unstable and oxidize quickly. It is not easy to “keep” them in the formula of the product. Natural cosmetics with these ingredients cannot be stored for long. It is better to keep it not in the bathroom, but in the refrigerator.
Where is it used? In the care of sensitive, reactive and dry skin, as well as in the treatment of acne, rashes and irritations.
Glycerin (G lycerin)
A chemical that is naturally produced in our skin. Perhaps this is one of the most popular and effective ingredients. Has the ability to retain moisture in the epidermis. But this is not its only advantage. Glycerin is able to reduce the sensitivity of the skin to aggressive components, which is why it is popular in the composition of cleansers.
In recent years, there have been discussions that glycerin, supposedly, on the contrary, dries the skin, and this process is especially strong in a dry climate. Unfortunately, categorical judgments are popular with us. Of course, if we apply pure 100% glycerin to our face, we get dehydrated skin. But nobody uses it like that! Developers of cosmetics, as a rule, introduce it into the formulation in an amount of 3-5% and therefore receive high-quality hydration, regardless of weather conditions.
Where is it used? As part of moisturizing serums, creams, toners, face masks, hair conditioners, shampoos, body lotions. Glycerin is added to almost all cosmetics!
Phytosterols (Phytosterol)
A natural ingredient found in unrefined avocado, plum, organ, baobab and soy oils. Phytosterols help the stratum corneum to remain intact, reduce various inflammatory reactions of the skin, and promote the synthesis of collagen and elastin. They are natural defenders against UV radiation and are often used as additional ingredients in herbal cosmetics that protect the skin from sun damage.
Where is it used? In the care of sensitive and problem skin prone to acne. It is also actively used in anti-aging cosmetics.
Resveratrol (Resveratrol)
One of the most effective antioxidants in its action. It is found in the skins of grapes, cocoa and some types of nuts. This component can be safely called one of the most important in natural cosmetics. Resveratrol inhibits the development of the oxidative process in the skin, reduces cell damage by free radicals and has a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect.
Where is it used? In anti-aging cosmetic products for face and body skin care, as well as in “sun” lines, it perfectly restores the skin after sunburn.
Can natural and organic cosmetics be effective? Of course it can, if it contains at least one of these ingredients! They are widely used in classic cosmetics containing synthetic components. Always try to read the composition of the product before buying, and then it will never disappoint your expectations!
Text: Veronica Shur
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