All About Retinol: Why It Is Popular, How To Use It, Who Is Not Suitable For

Recently, everyone has been talking about the miraculous properties of retinol (or its other name - vitamin A): scientists, cosmetologists, beauty bloggers. However, do not rush to follow the advice from the Internet and immediately buy a cream with this ingredient. The effects of retinol can be both positive and negative. And it depends not only on the individual characteristics of the skin and the body, but also on age, the rules of personal care, even the combination of retinol with other vitamins and components.

Detailed instructions on retinol from the best cosmetologists and doctors in Moscow are in our article!

What is retinol and why is it so popular

Victoria Goncharuk

dermatologist-cosmetologist

- Retinol is the first vitamin discovered by scientists in 1913, which is why it was named the first letter of the alphabet. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that easily penetrates the epidermis. Retinol is essential for healthy skin and hair, a normal immune system, as well as new cell growth and slowing the aging process.

Signs of a lack of vitamin A are expressed in the appearance of peeling on the skin, increased dryness, conjunctivitis, dandruff, hair loss, decreased visual acuity (especially at night), increased susceptibility to infections. A large amount of retinol is found in fish, liver, vegetables and fruits of orange and yellow color (carrots, pumpkin, apricot). But for the absorption of retinol in the digestive tract, fats are required.

What effect does retinol have on the skin?

Daria Yakushevich

dermatovenerologist, cosmetologist, surgeon, head of the department of facial and body aesthetics at X-Clinic

- Retinol is very unstable to the external environment and easily decomposes, therefore it is used in the form of various compounds - retinol palmitate, retinol acetate and others. It should also be remembered that it is not retinol itself that works in the skin, but its derivative, retinoic acid. This compound has receptors in skin cells and activates their division and synthetic activity.

Retinol formulations are especially useful for acne patients and sunbathers with signs of photoaging. In these cases, all the beneficial properties of this compound are manifested: acceleration of skin renewal, pronounced antioxidant protection, regulation of the sebaceous glands. As a result of the use of retinol, the complexion is improved, age spots are lightened.

For patients with acne, there is no link to age, all appointments should be according to indications. For the prevention of chrono- and photoaging, retinol can be used from the age of 25-30. However, in using funds with this component, a number of rules must be followed. Otherwise, the skin can only be harmed.

How to use retinol creams

Retinol is a difficult compound, and before using it, an allergy test should be done on an inconspicuous area of ​​the skin (more often it is done on the inner surface of the forearm). If the allergy test gave a negative result, then this component can be introduced into the care. But gradually, starting with a small amount and infrequent use.

It is also important to remember that at the beginning of therapy, phenomena such as dry skin and itching are possible, so immediately stock up on good moisturizing serums and creams. In addition, we must not forget that retinol derivatives increase the sensitivity of the skin to sunlight, which is the reason for the constant use of SPF-protected products. Experience suggests that the vast majority of patients have not left the house for a long time without sunscreen, even in winter, but when using retinoids, control should be strengthened.

Speaking about the interaction of various agents, one of the main rules is not to mix retinol with vitamin C in one application. To benefit from each of these ingredients, retinol is best used in the evening and vitamin C in the morning.

Also, when treating acne, do not combine retinol with benzoyl peroxide (basiron) to avoid severe irritation and possible burns!

Another important rule

Maya Zhmareva

dermatologist and cosmetologist at the Austrian health center Verba Mayr

- Apply a cream with retinol quickly, since when it comes into contact with the skin, the active ingredient starts working instantly.

In this case, moisturizing creams or serums should be used only one hour after applying retinol. This way you will not dry out your skin and prolong the life of the component.

Contraindications

Daria Yakushevich

dermatovenerologist, cosmetologist, surgeon, head of the department of facial and body aesthetics at X-Clinic

- As mentioned earlier, when using retinol, flaking, itching and tightness may appear. If you cannot cope with these phenomena, you must stop using the drug.

In addition, vitamin A is completely contraindicated in pregnancy and lactation, and if a patient is going to undergo a retinoic (so-called yellow) peel, he is advised not to plan a pregnancy for several months after the procedure.

How to choose a retinol product

“The concentration of retinol in the cream should be at least 0.1% (prophylactic agents) and at least 0.4% (medicinal agents),” says dermatologist-cosmetologist Viktoria Goncharuk. - If the manufacturer does not indicate the percentage of retinol on the package, then the lower the mention of vitamin A in the list of ingredients, the lower its concentration. Better to look for products in which retinol is listed at the top of the list of components."

At the same time, Maya Zhmareva from Verba Mayr advises choosing products where the concentration of retinol is 0.2% or more.