What is the main difference between day and night remedies? Any high-quality day cream must necessarily contain SPF filters that protect against the action of the ultraviolet spectrum of light, antioxidants to protect the skin from the negative effects of the environment, and also have a light texture (to serve as a makeup base at the same time). However, such care, as a rule, does not contain serious moisturizers and powerful active anti-aging ingredients, so as not to cause a hypersensitivity reaction upon contact with external factors. But we appreciate the night cream for these properties and for completely different ingredients.
Aliya Shalamberidze
Doctor-cosmetologist
TOP 7 ingredients that should be part of a night cream:
Retinoids (retinoic acid, tretinoin, retinol or retinaldehyde)
Retinol is one of the most common vitamin A derivatives found in cream. Vitamin A has other derivatives - for example, American brands often use tretinoin or isotretinoin. This component accelerates the regeneration of skin cells - in other words, stimulates its renewal, eliminates hyperpigmentation, protects against photoaging, blocks enzymes that destroy collagen.
Why is the presence of retinol so important for night care? The fact is that under the influence of sunlight, its effect can be suppressed, and the use of retinol becomes less effective. It is for this reason that vitamin A is best applied to the skin before bed.
Vitamin B 3 (Niacinamide, vitamin B3)
The main task of vitamin B3 is to restore the barrier functions of the skin. Like vitamin A, this component promotes cell renewal, improves tone and elasticity, and also has a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect (by the way, inflammation can also lead to a decrease in collagen synthesis). Niacinamine is an antioxidant that fights free radicals, one of the causes of premature aging. It allows you to soften the skin, neutralize redness, and is effective against acne and other breakouts.
Peptides (Argireline, acetyl hexapeptide-3, Matryxil and Copper Peptides)
The composition of the night cream must necessarily include peptides - these are essentially the same amino acids connected in small chemical chains. Amino acids are the main constituents of proteins, the building material for cells.
Which peptides are used in the composition of the cream depends on each specific manufacturer, but one thing unites them - they are able to penetrate through dead skin cells and stimulate the synthesis of collagen, the so-called "youthful skin protein". In simple terms, peptides are able to control the processes occurring at the cellular level. Including the aging process - slowing it down, of course.
Hyaluronic acid (HYALURONIC ACID)
Some creams do not contain hyaluronic acid, but collagen. In cosmetology, there are huge doubts about the fact that collagen in the structure of the cream itself is able to have an anti-aging effect on the skin. It is poorly absorbed by cells, and it only takes place in the composition of serums or injections - and even then experts cannot come to a consensus about the justification for its use.
Another thing is hyaluronic acid, which stimulates collagen production and is really able to slow down the aging process and maintain elasticity.
By the way, the skin that has been exposed to excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation produces less hyaluronic acid and needs to replenish its deficiency. In addition, this component of the cream is an excellent moisturizer. "Hyaluron" also works in day cream, but at night it is absorbed most actively - precisely for the reason that at night the cells recover more intensively and are susceptible to external influences.
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid, vitamin C)
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, one of the most important components that stimulate biochemical reactions in the fight against oxidants and "the culprits of aging." It is best used for night care, as it is one of the ingredients that can trigger a hypersensitivity reaction. You shouldn't oversaturate the skin with "usefulness" either - during the day we use antioxidants and SPF filters, there is no need to add very active vitamin C to this "cocktail".
There is one more important point - vitamin C evaporates rather quickly over time, which is especially typical for creams in jar-shaped packages. Therefore, if you have chosen night care with vitamin C, then it is better to buy a cream with a dispenser - then the useful component will always be “at the service”.
Oils (oils)
Night creams are always more oily and denser in texture than day creams, as their main function is to moisturize and promote rejuvenation. And if the day cream most often serves as a base for makeup, before the night cream it is used by itself - without additional products. Such care must necessarily contain oils - be it argan oil, olive oil or any fruit.
The main task of all oils that make up cosmetics is to provide the skin with the necessary nutrition. Oils often contain tocopherol (a natural cell regenerator), polyphenols (phytochemical components to give the skin a healthy tone and texture) and, of course, fatty acids (stearic, oleic, palmitic, linoleic), which provide elasticity, actively nourish cells, protect the skin from harmful external influences.
Fruit acids, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
Lemon, malic, glycolic, lactic, pyruvic and tartaric acids are acids that promote natural self-renewal of cells, restore water balance, and reduce hyperpigmentation. The mechanism of their action is still not fully understood. One hypothesis suggests that AHAs reduce the concentration of calcium ions in the epidermis, which promotes cell growth, thereby making the skin look younger.
Glycolic acid - the most common and very often used in the creation of peels and scrubs, but they are no less valuable in the composition of a night cream. Glycolic acid activates the regenerative functions of our cells and, in addition, of all fruit acids, it has the smallest molecular weight, that is, its particles are so tiny that they can penetrate the stratum corneum, acting at a deep level. In night and anti-aging care, it is one of the most valuable ingredients.
