With age, the skin changes: the pores increase in size, elasticity decreases, melanogenesis is disrupted and the first mimic wrinkles appear, as well as age spots. Modern hardware cosmetology is able to restore radiance to the skin, narrow pores, remove blood vessels, improve relief and even correct the oval of the face - the main thing is to choose the right procedure. With dermatologist and cosmetologist Victoria Filimonova, we figure out which methods are the most effective and which of this list is right for you.
Victoria Filimonova (@dr__viki)
Dermatologist, cosmetologist, trichologist, laser therapist
The photorejuvenation procedure fights the first age-related changes, literally rejuvenating the skin. This non-invasive technique is generally good in itself - the diffused IPL light penetrates through the stratum corneum and epidermis, stimulating dermal renewal. It is recommended not a one-time visit, but a course of several procedures, which will be able to:
- to get rid of rosacea and age spots (rays destroy cells with excess melanin);
- to increase skin elasticity: procedures provoke active synthesis of collagen and elastin;
- narrow pores;
- improve complexion - after the course, the skin will begin to glow from the inside.
The course of photorejuvenation consists of 4 procedures every two weeks - preferably not in the summer, as the sensitivity of the skin to ultraviolet light will increase. Photorejuvenation should be avoided by people with very dark skin and fresh tanning (be it a beach, from a solarium or self-tanning). Do not forget to read the full list of contraindications.
Laser rejuvenation is primarily about working with texture. The deeper the laser penetrates and the higher the power, the brighter the effect will be.
What are lasers?
- fractional: the laser beam is split into many micro-beams, when exposed to the formation of zones of thermally damaged skin (it will give signals for accelerated recovery). Intact skin will also start active regeneration and start collagen synthesis;
- non-fractional: affects the entire surface of the skin;
- ablative: damages the epidermis and dermis. The higher the power, the longer the rehabilitation period and the more risks;
- non-ablative: no major tissue damage.
For superficial skin rejuvenation, lifting, tightening pores and removing age spots, short-wave picosecond lasers (eg Picoshure, picoWay) have proven themselves. Their pulse duration is equal to several trillionths of a second (ultra-fast "cold" lasers). This allows you to carry out the procedure without anesthesia, shorten the rehabilitation period and avoid complications.
For deeper skin renewal, improvement of its tone and texture, erbium fractional laser is popular, which penetrates into the uppermost layers of the dermis.
When the wrinkles have already lain and the creams do not help much, the carbon dioxide CO2 laser is ideal for working with the deep layers of the skin (mainly fractional techniques are used with it). Sometimes an ablative laser is used to completely "erase" wrinkles, but this is a traumatic procedure. It is done under general anesthesia and the recovery period takes at least a month. But the results are amazing!
Radio wave lifting
It is based on thermal effects on different layers of tissue and collagen stimulation. It is used for lifting, correcting gravitational ptosis, working with the submental area (double chin), strengthening the dermal framework and activating microcirculation.
Fractional radio wave devices (needle RF-lifting) are increasingly used. There is a certain number of needles on the attachment, which penetrate the tissue to a predetermined depth and only then a radio wave is supplied. Due to the mechanism of skin damage, the production of new collagen is stimulated, and due to heating, lifting. The procedure slightly smoothes the skin, narrows the pores, removes superficial vessels due to their coagulation and increases the skin tone, while requiring almost no rehabilitation.
Safe and comfortable procedure without damaging the skin - can be done at any time of the year. Infrared light penetrates deep into the dermis and gently warms it up. More suitable for thin and atonic (flabby) skin, after the procedures it will become denser and more elastic.
Focused ultrasound works on a specific target layer. The goal is to strengthen the musculo-aponeurotic system of the face SMAS, which stretches with age and can no longer support the soft tissues of the face. The SMAS “connects” the skin and subcutaneous fat to the facial muscles - the more the SMAS is stretched, the less contoured the face becomes.
During the procedure, heating occurs, as a result of which all soft tissues are tightened and neocollagenesis is stimulated. Ultrasonic lifting is performed once, the maximum result can be seen after 4 months.
Interview and text: Olga Kulygina
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