Make-up artist Andrey Shilkov knows everything not only about makeup, but also about skin care. BeautyHack asked Andrey about how to properly wash and remove cosmetics. Check yourself - are you doing it right?
Andrey Shilkov
Star makeup artist
Many people say that beautiful skin starts with moisturizing, but as a dermacosmetologist by training, I want to note that proper cleansing is step "number one" to healthy glowing skin, and hydration is still step "number two".
Do not scrub the skin "until it squeaks"
Today, there are many misconceptions about how to properly cleanse the skin. All these Korean "multi-stage washing systems", which, in principle, do not suit Europeans, or illiterate advice from glossy publications to throw tonic out of the cosmetic bag altogether … All this is due to ignorance, unfortunately.
As for proper washing, there is such a stereotype: if you cleanse your face "to a squeak," then it is clean. But we live in the 21st century, it's time to learn to hear your skin.
What is a "creak"? This is an indication that you have removed the lipid layer that protected your skin. And you just deleted it. What happens after? The skin abruptly presses the "SOS" button, because it urgently needs to replenish the hydrolipid balance. Hence the appearance of excessive shine, because the "frightened" sebaceous glands begin to work intensively. Remember that the slightest mechanical effect (for example, an incorrectly selected method of cleansing or gommage) creates micro-damage, and over time this develops into an inflammatory process or the appearance of a new wrinkle that did not exist before, and you will say in disappointment: “Well! Plus one …"
Use only peels with synthetic granules
I am quite skeptical about peels, because I only accept products with synthetic granules - they are the only ones that do not injure the skin. When we work on a face with a scrub or peeling, we do not see the damage we inflict on the skin: microtraumas, which, as I said, develop into wrinkles, inflammatory processes, or, for example, noticeable capillaries.
If we are talking about professional acid peels, then this should be taken very seriously. Alas, in Moscow it is almost impossible to find a high-quality salon peeling. I often hear from girls that the procedure was carried out, for example, in summer or spring: this is already a very big question for a cosmetologist, because a professional should know that peels can be done only in autumn or winter!
Avoid scrubs and brushes if you have sensitive skin
I no longer use Clarisonic type brushes, for the same reason I have already mentioned: the creation of microtrauma. Previously, I used this device for a very long time, I was very pleased and could even recommend it. But over time, I noticed that such an aggressive method of cleansing is completely unsuitable for my sensitive skin, I stopped using the device and soon felt positive changes.
I will never say that Clarisonic is a bad device, but if your skin is also prone to sensitivity and inflammation, it is still better to refuse such methods of cleansing (this also applies to scrubs).
Give up tap water
Use city running water only when you can't live without it. And I advise you to cleanse your face and remove makeup exclusively with micellar water or hydrophilic oil, using cotton pads.
That is, it is possible not to use cleansers at all in combination with tap water - this method is too radical, the skin dries out from it, and the chlorine contained in the water disrupts its natural pH balance. Of course, this rule does not apply to mineral water - you can just buy it in bottles and use it to cleanse your face.
Use lotions and tonics
After you have removed your makeup with micellar water and cleansed your skin, it needs to be toned. It is imperative to use tonics! It doesn't matter how you do it - apply with a cotton pad or spray from a spray. I always say that the skin gets used to the best very quickly - use the toner for at least 20-30 days on average, and you yourself will see the result and feel the difference.
In addition, I advise you not to forget about one more important step that many skip and for some reason consider unnecessary - this is a preparatory lotion after washing and toning. This is an important step before basic care. And before applying makeup. Don't exclude serums as well - make them a permanent part of your beauty routine.
Andrey Shilkov's favorite products for cleansing and toning the skin:
Beauty Elixir Facial Beauty Water, Caudalie
This elixir is known all over the world - just a global must-have. I first met him when I saw Victoria Beckham, one of those women who inspire me, in a makeup bag. Victoria has a very high bar, so I trust her choice with my eyes closed. Since then, the elixir is always with me. There was even such a joke: if my colleagues come to the studio where I work, they will immediately find out that I am somewhere nearby: “It smells of Caudalie - that means Shilkov is here!” (Laughs.).
Shake bottle well before use to mix essential oils. Tones, refreshes and tightens pores.
Peeling Silk Peeling Powder, Sensai
Of all peels for home use on the market, this one is perhaps the softest and most gentle on the skin. It is a loose powder that instantly melts under the influence of water, effectively cleanses, but does not hurt.
Lotion Micellaire Embryolisse micellar water
As for micellar water, you have a wide choice - buy what you like. I have been using Embryolisse for a long time - it has a very pleasant aroma and wonderful properties.
Micellar water The Cleansing Micellar Water, La Mer
This product appeared in the La Mer line for only a few months, but has already earned my full approval. Perfectly removes any makeup, does not remain on the skin after use and refreshes - I recommend.
Preparatory lotion The Treatment Lotion, La Mer
As my clients who tried it for the first time say, life is divided into before and after. Luxurious product. Improves skin tone and enhances the effects of subsequent care. A bright representative of the oriental philosophy of creating beautiful skin.
Hydrophilic oil Skin Purifier Ultime8 Sublime, Shu Uemura
An iconic product. Proven by time and love of a huge number of fans around the world. This oil is formulated with 8 carefully selected oils to perfectly remove makeup and cleanse the skin.
Text: Nino Takaishvili
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