Svetlana Grebenkova, creative director of the Russian cosmetics brand PROmakeup Laboratory, told BeautyHack about her favorite care products and their compositions.
Creative director of PROmakeup Laboratory, star makeup artist
I pay more attention to cosmetic products than decorative cosmetics. If you prepare the skin well, you need very little cosmetics: you slightly tint your eyelashes, give your eyebrows a shape, put gloss on your lips - you're done! As soon as skin problems appear, the list of color cosmetics grows. Which makeup products really make your skin better?
Serum New Skin, PROmakeup Laboratory
When creating a care product with hyaluronic acid, it is difficult to choose which is more important: deep penetration of the composition into the skin (at a low molecular level to remove microtrauma) or medium, which accumulates moisture in the skin and gives the very effect of smoothing the relief.
We took the Swiss ingredient Cube-3 - it combines three fractions of hyaluronic acid at once (low, medium and high molecular weight obtained by biofermentation). For each new batch of an ingredient, the company with which we cooperate provides new certificates of its effectiveness. They say that 30 minutes after applying the composition, the elasticity of the skin is restored, and we can see it. The New Skin serum gives an instant lifting effect, but not by stretching the skin from the outside, but due to the action of the composition from the inside.
I gave this serum to all my friends, American makeup artists. They call me and ask: “Why so few? Our stars, with whom we work, really liked it, they want to take the product with them. " Because with it the skin feels comfortable even with professional make-up.
In addition to hyaluronic acid, the composition includes the Korean BSASM complex of seven plant extracts. This complex was tested on children with atopic dermatitis - after each application, with each layer, the skin brightens and calms down right before the eyes. Signaling molecules (which are also invented by Koreans) make the skin work as if it were 25 years old: the level of collagen is maintained, which is more and more lacking every year.
Another effect of the serum is that it stops DNA damage and strengthens the skin's protective barrier. In conditions of aggressive environmental influences, this is very important. The serum removes toxins from the skin, we get rid of blackheads and enlarged pores. Over time, you can refuse from the foundation.
Makeup base Sleek Skin, PROmakeup Laboratory
I don't like matting bases - they dry out the skin and leave it unkempt. We have added ceramides from olive oil and squalane to the Sleek Skin base. Both ingredients are the building blocks of our lipid layer. They smooth out all flaking, rough dry areas, while the skin remains matte.
Another secret ingredient is encapsulated squalane. When the skin secretes sebum, these capsules come into contact with it and open, taking fat into themselves and giving squalane to the “empty space”. During the day, the skin remains silky.
Exfoliating wipes Pure Clean Scrub & Peel, Kiko Milano
I always use exfoliating wipes for makeup. I think they have no alternatives yet. Even modern peeling masks with acids lose in many ways - this is not always convenient in work or everyday life when a quick effect is needed.
Wipes with a rough surface scrub the skin well and prepare it for makeup. Even further care products that restore the lipid layer of the skin work better after the wipes.
Micellar water for removing make-up with Clean Skin foaming agent, PROmakeup Laboratory
It looks like water in a bottle, but a special dispenser turns the product into foam. They can wash off makeup or just wash your face. I apply on clean, dry hands, then on a dry face. I distribute over the skin and wash off in one motion.
When I tried Clean Skin for the first time, it felt like a clip was edited: I applied the foam, and in a moment the skin became clear. There was no need to rub your eyes, all the cosmetics in this product simply dissolved.
Should micellar water rinse off? This question cannot be answered unequivocally. It all depends on the composition of the product itself - how many surfactants (surfactants) that form micelles are in it. If 100 percent of the surfactant formula is only 1.5 percent, then it is not necessary to wash off such water. We use the same surfactants that Bioderma, A-Derma and other dermatological brands use, and that's only 1.5 percent. In many brands, the amount of surfactants can reach 5-6 percent - this water already needs to be washed off, it creates an extra layer on the skin.
To make the product foamy with a small amount of surfactants, we added soap tree extract to it. It is environmentally friendly and is the only extract in the world that kills Candida fungi. With daily use, the foam will prevent the development of bacteria on the surface of the skin - this is especially true for those with acne and post-acne.
Lip scrub Soft Lips, PROmakeup Laboratory
Over the past few years, the fashion for matte lipsticks and tints has greatly influenced the quality of the lips of many girls. Our pineapple, strawberry or chocolate lip scrubs are 3 in 1. Many people wear it like a balm during the day, I use it before makeup and as a mask at night.
Bones, salt and sugar scratch the lips a lot, which is why we have added small biodegradable cellulose particles to the product. Of all that is now on the market, this is the only active and non-abrasive ingredient, because we have a lot of micro-damage on our lips. The scrub softens the top layer of the lips and gently removes dead skin cells.
The product contains ingredients that do not absorb into the skin of the lips, but work like a balm. Therefore, if you plan to apply matte lipstick, it is better to rinse off the scrub with micellar water. If not, the residues can be removed with a dry cloth.
The signaling molecule I mentioned earlier causes the lip skin to produce collagen. Those who use this scrub every day notice that the lip contour has become smoother.
Beauty hacker of the week: 13 favorite makeup products for Svetlana Grebenkova
Interview and text: Olga Kulygina
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