Beauty Hacker Of The Week: Svetlana Grebenkova On The Biggest Beauty Delusions

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Video: Beauty Hacker Of The Week: Svetlana Grebenkova On The Biggest Beauty Delusions
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Beauty Hacker Of The Week: Svetlana Grebenkova On The Biggest Beauty Delusions
Beauty Hacker Of The Week: Svetlana Grebenkova On The Biggest Beauty Delusions
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Are silicones and parabens really dangerous? What cosmetics are comedogenic? Can an adult use baby cream? Svetlana Grebenkova, creative director of PROmakeup Laboratory.

avatar Svetlana Grebenkova
avatar Svetlana Grebenkova

Svetlana Grebenkova

Creative director of PROmakeup Laboratory, star makeup artist

Comedogenic cosmetics

Everyone is talking about the comedogenicity of cosmetics, but what it is - no one understands. There is only one answer: "My pores are clogged."

When can cosmetics clog the pores of the skin? In two cases: either the size of the molecule of any ingredient must be smaller than the size of the pore (and "fall through" the pore, thereby clogging it), or the product must completely cover the face, not allowing the skin to breathe even a little. Both options are physically impossible.

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Only a few components can create an impenetrable film on the face and clog pores - as a rule, they are not used in cosmetics. These are petrolatum (petrolatum) and mineral oil. As manufacturers, in Russia we cannot create such funds, we will not receive GOST for them.

An exception is lip products, because lips have no pores. Our PROmakeup Laboratory scrub contains a little petroleum jelly so that it holds the formula on the surface, and does not let dry skin "eat" everything at once.

We are often asked: “Can I apply your scrub all over my face? I will peel them. " You can't! Vaseline will close the pores, so air cannot enter the skin. Although this may not lead to problems - the skin will simply begin to experience stress, and it manifests itself differently for everyone. Someone will experience inflammation, someone will have dry and irritated skin.

When manufacturers write “not comedogenic” on the packaging - this is a marketing ploy. Just like in sunflower oil, they write “without carcinogens”. For this, it is refined and deodorized. Any deodorized oil a priori cannot be carcinogenic, it is not necessary to write about this on the package.

Silicones

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Many people are worried about the presence of silicones in cosmetics, but in vain. Silicones are artificial oils and are completely safe. It's just that at the beginning of the 20th century, scientists decided to replace its final part in the structure of the oil molecule - and they got a silicone oil that does not oxidize, does not deteriorate and does not interact with organic matter. This is one of the best inventions in the cosmetics industry today. There is no allergy from silicones, they cannot react on the skin, unlike natural oils. They are not comedogenic - the silicone molecule is larger than the pore size.

Talc

In 2016, in the entire history of the American beauty industry, a large cosmetic giant was officially fined by a court. The American court in the city of St. Louis ordered Johnson & Johnson to pay the cancer woman $ 110 million. A woman who has been using talcum powder every day for over 40 years has died of cancer.

Any doctor will tell you that the medicine for the poison differs in dosage. Talc is the only mineral that is allowed in baby cosmetics because it is hypoallergenic and completely safe. It is not for nothing that world cosmetic brands such as Charlotte Tilbury, Tom Ford, Armani use talcum powder in their products. Talc gives cosmetics a very pleasant tactile sensation. In nature, it has a plate structure, so it is so smoothly applied and easily shaded. Talcum shadows are the most persistent. When do cosmetics peel off the skin? When oil dissolves. And talc, as a mineral, has a very high oil absorption coefficient. That is why talcum powder and talcum powder so effectively absorb moisture and grease.

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Another stereotype about talcum powder is that it clogs pores. I talk a lot with doctors, chemists all over the world - not a single person has yet told me that there is a scientific evidence base about the comedogenicity of talc. There is no mixer in the industry that can break a mineral down to a size smaller than a pore. This means that he will never fail in time and will not lead to its blockage.

Parabens

Parabens are currently the only broad-spectrum preservatives. They work as an antibacterial agent against infections of any kind. Is it bad? Of course not.

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Preservatives are added to formulations that contain water - it is in them that microbiology can develop and live. The water formula must be very well protected with a preservative, and in lipstick or, for example, shadows, they are not needed. But they are needed in mascara. As a person involved in development, I will always choose paraben-based mascara, because mascara comes in direct contact with the mucous membrane. Only parabens relieve the remedy from mold, fungus, virus - from any dirt. As a makeup artist, I know for sure that it is safe to paint everyone with one brush, because I have paraben-based mascara. By the way, the expiration date of preservatives is indicated on the package - this is the icon of an open jar, inside which is written the number of months. For so many months, preservatives are 100% effective from the moment the product was opened. For mascara, for example, it is usually 6 months old.

Parabens now have a trendy alternative, phenoxyethanol. Once this preservative was allowed in children's cosmetics, but now it has been banned - there is a large evidence base that it irritates the mucous membranes. Be warned: if a brand claims to be paraben-free, it is most likely using phenoxyethanol. It can pinch and irritate the skin, especially around the eyes.

Parabens are safe - they are the world's most studied preservative. As a person who knows the manufacturing industry from the inside, I can say for sure: it is safer to take an ingredient that has been studied for 20 years than a preservative, which was recognized as a preservative yesterday. Moreover, the legislation is structured like this - if there is even a suspicion that some ingredient can harm health, it immediately falls into the black list, and manufacturing companies around the world should exclude it from their compositions. If there was even the slightest suspicion that these preservatives are carcinogenic or lead to oncology, they would have already been banned.

Our technologist-developer Ekaterina Klyshinskaya says all the time: “When Europe prohibits us from the last two of the permitted parabens, our cosmetics will rot and become moldy.” Not a single product has yet deteriorated on parabens, and they have not harmed anyone yet. By the way, it is now forbidden to write on the packaging "does not contain parabens" or "not comedogenic". I hope we will stop being afraid of these words.

Children's cosmetics

Many people like to take products from children's cosmetics for themselves in home care, but this cannot be done. A child's skin pH is 7.7 units, while ours is 5.5. Vaseline is often contained in baby creams - it is allowed, because the child has practically no pores as a living element, they cannot be clogged.

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Children often experience loss of moisture, which is why mineral oils are added to children's products. They create a locking film on the skin, which should never be created on the skin of an adult. Johnson's Baby was even banned from advertising baby oil for adults.

Russian cosmetics

The main myth, which I have been debunking for a whole year now, is about Russian cosmetics. For some reason, many people think that if cosmetics are made in Europe or the USA, it is safe, if in Russia it is not and cannot be.

Few people know that the list of prohibited cosmetic ingredients in Russia is much larger than the European and American ones. For example, in our production we cannot use alcohol in cosmetics. Foundation creams of the world's largest brands - all with alcohol. We can use petroleum jelly and mineral oils only for lips, hands and feet (with a note that these are “liquid gloves” that must be washed off).

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Russian cosmetic GOSTs are among the most stringent in the world. In terms of safety, it is much stricter than the requirements of the European Union. A few months ago, we added toxicology studies that were never mandatory. We cannot write whatever we want on the packaging without reason and checks. Every effect of a cream or any other product must be confirmed by independent research. The wrong list of ingredients means court proceedings, criminal liability and many more nuances.

We are often asked if we test our cosmetics on animals. Within production, no. But if animals are used by Russian poison control centers, then not a single rabbit with PROmakeup Laboratory cosmetics will definitely suffer!

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