For the past seven years Ernest Muntaniol has been Chanel's leading makeup artist in Russia. Constantly works at World Fashion Weeks, painting stars such as Mila Jovovich, Morgana Polanski and Alice Dellal. Often participates in the filming of glossy magazines: GQ, Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire. Ernest told BeautyHack what eye makeup is ideal.
Leading makeup artist for Chanel in Russia
“Personality always comes first for Chanel. The ideal eye makeup is the one that is made taking into account the individual structure of the face. In this case, the shape of the eyes does not change - it does not adjust to the classic almond shape with the help of shadows, false eyelashes, eyeliner. The task of Chanel makeup is to emphasize the individuality and peculiarity of each person, to show that he is beautiful."
In previous articles, we talked about the iconic Chanel products and makeup mistakes. Today our topic is the secrets of perfect eye makeup. To make the look more expressive, we darken the eyes: lightly and delicately for daytime make-up, intensely for evening make-up. Start applying the darkest color at the lash line, on the upper and lower eyelids. Then blend it, adding lighter shades towards the eyebrows and temples. With this technique, we set off the shape of the eye and achieve greater expressiveness due to the contrast of dark (shadows, eyeliner, mascara) and light (white of the eye).
Perfect eye makeup starts with the shape of the brows. Entrust the correction to a specialist - do not do it yourself.
An eyebrow specialist will analyze the features of the client's face, taking into account the natural shape of the eyebrows. By radically changing it, we risk creating disharmony and imbalance with the rest of the face.
Match the shade of eyeshadow, pencil or permanent paint to match your hair color or a tone darker. If you have them colored, the shade of the eyebrows is matched to the roots. For bright blondes, regardless of color (golden or ashy), I recommend cold ones - not brown, but gray.
If the hair is dyed black, the shade of the eyebrows should be one or two shades lighter - otherwise they will look unnatural, stencil and rough in relation to the skin color.
Use a beveled eyebrow brush and shadow to create clear lines (for example, to extend the ponytail or adjust the shape). It is convenient to fill in gaps with a double-sided pencil - most importantly, do not forget to carefully shade the result with a brush from the back.
Remember that the head of the eyebrow (its beginning) must be lighter than the rest, otherwise the result will be unnatural.
Don't forget about colorless or tinted gels - they will help style your eyebrows. The first tool will guide the hairs, and the second will make each hair thicker. As a result, you will get a fluffy and wide shape that is fashionable this season.
If your lashes don't have a natural curve and grow straight or downward, use the Recourbe Cils De Chanel eyelash curler before applying mascara. Curl in three steps: first just the tips, then the middle, and then at the roots - this technique will create a smooth curve.
First, it is important to use tongs, and then dye the eyelashes with mascara: the pigment of the product makes the eyelashes fragile and brittle, there is a high probability of damage.
Start coloring the eyelashes at the roots, in the inner corner of the eye, with a sealing movement. Then, combing them with a brush, we distribute the product from roots to tips - in the middle of the eyelid and in the outer corner of the eye. Dye them in the direction of growth, rather than trying to pull all the hairs to the outer corner. On the lower eyelid, apply mascara from the outer corner to the inner corner.
The blue shade suits brown, gray, blue and blue eyes. Burgundy, brown shades are ideal for greens. Black is a universal color - I recommend it to everyone.
For a more lasting and expressive look, use a pencil as a base under the eyeshadow. Use an eyeshadow brush to blend the eyeliner line at the lash edge - turn it into a light haze. Then apply shadows - this will facilitate the process, and the shade will turn out to be rich and deep.
For bold, dark smoky eyes, paint over lashes with mascara before applying eyeshadow. We often leave imprints on the skin during pigment distribution or open our eyes at the most inopportune moment. As a result, we spoil everything that we tried to shade for so long and carefully. The cotton swab, along with traces of mascara, removes the perfect shading. This rule only applies to dark shades of shadows. In other cases (especially with light ones), the eyelashes are colored after - dry pigments tend to crumble.
Before the eyeshadow, apply a small amount of the concealer to the skin of the eyelids using a natural bristle blending brush. Using the concealer, we not only even out the skin tone, but also create a light, slightly damp base so that the color pigment and texture are better fixed.
Dry shadows (both loose and compact), when applied to the eyelids, crumble - this is especially noticeable when working with dark shades. They fix very quickly on the damp surface of foundation or concealer - it is almost impossible to remove them. I advise you to first create a dark and expressive eye makeup, without paying attention to the shedding of shadow particles on the skin. Then remove these pigments with a damp cotton pad. Apply a moisturizing serum and start distributing your foundation and concealer. This sequence will create the perfect and fresh tone.
Choosing shades of eyeshadow
Green eyes are emphasized by brown, maroon, purple, dark bronze, brick shades.
For blue eyes, you need colors that will not distort the color of the iris and make it bright. Cool browns, dark gray, steel, black, maroon, brown-purple, dark wine shades will do.
For gray eyes, try not to use shades of shadows that completely match the color scheme of the iris. I recommend the silver-steel ones: it is the metallic sheen that gives gray eyes a shine effect. Dark blue, silver-blue, black, lilac-lilac shadows are also suitable.
For brown eyes, the largest palette is dark brown, purple, burgundy, dark green, emerald, and all shades of blue. Only some light colors (for example, lilac) may not work.
For eyes with blue shades I recommend bluish-gray, gray, cold lilac, brown, maroon, black, plum, dark blue shades.