Sulfate-free Shampoos: Pros And Cons

2023 Author: Jessica James | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-08-25 04:20

Cosmetic chemist and creator of her own brand Sharova Pro Anna Sharova and founder of the natural cosmetics brand @ natureal.ua and columnist at BeautyHack Vita Liasota - about why sulfates are needed in shampoos, why they are protected by many trichologists and whether there are natural SLS and SLES.

What is SLS?

“The main role is sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), - explains Anna Sharova, - excellent foaming at a relatively low cost of the component. For example: the SLS toothpaste will foam gorgeous, which means it will clean the enamel and fight plaque. Toothpaste without SLS foam is no longer so good, which means that the enamel does not clean so well: it seems to have brushed my teeth, but there is no feeling of cleanliness."

Do not forget that SLS is the main working component of most household chemicals. They foam and remove dirt thanks to sodium lauryl sulfate.

“They have a similar task in shampoos,” says Vita Liasota. These are surfactants that are responsible for the formation of foam. From the point of view of chemistry, these are salts. Moreover, very inexpensive and with good cleansing abilities.

Anna Sharova

Cosmetic chemist and creator of her own brand, Sharova Pro

Look for dodecyl sulphate, sodium PEG lauryl sulphate, monododecyl ester, sodium PEG lauryl ether sulphate in the compositions of the products. This will help you understand which shampoos are sulfate-free.

What is the difference between SLS and SLES sulfates?

Anna explains: “Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) is a white powder containing 100% of the active ingredient. Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) is traditionally a 70% paste. But the concentration can be less, about 30%, it all depends on the specific brand of sodium laureth sulfate.

Some companies claim to use natural SLES and SLS, but there are only two options: to produce sulfates 100% synthetically or partially natural."

According to Anna, it is not difficult to test the effect of sulfates on the skin. And this has been repeatedly done by large corporations (for example, the BASF concern) and independent expert organizations (The Cosmetic Ingredient Review). But the complexity of all patch tests is that sulfates are tested in large volumes and are on the skin for a long time, resulting in irritation. For example, to evaluate the effect of SLES, sulfate was on the skin for up to 48 hours, while its concentration in an aqueous solution reached 30% - this is not the case in cosmetics.

In the joint formula, the drying effect of SLES is always minimized, leaving only an indicator of customer-friendly foam.

If you compare these two components, then SLS will be more aggressive, but it is not often introduced into cosmetics anyway - it is replaced with SLES.

Vita Lasota

Cosmetic trichologist. Founder of a natural cosmetics brand

But, according to Vita, there is a fly in the ointment in this story: “We are surrounded by millions of bacteria, and not all of them are pests - some play a positive role (on the scalp, as well). SLS sweep away everything on its way indiscriminately (including "good" microorganisms), they make the scalp vulnerable and sensitive to the "bad guys". This is one of the main reasons why we make exactly sulfate-free shampoos”.

List of pros and cons: who are shampoos without SLES suitable and how to use?

“This is an eternal topic, but I have such an opinion,” Anna shares, “for clients with very high oily scalp and increased hair fragility, it is better to avoid shampoos with sulfates and choose sulfate-free shampoos (I boldly put ours from SharovaPro in the rating of the best sulfate-free shampoos!). But dry shampoos with SLS - for me a definite "no!"

Vita adds: “Most often oils, herbal extracts and vitamins act as a basis for sulfate-free shampoos. They do not irritate the scalp - ideal for those who suffer from allergies, are easily washed off with water and do not disturb the skin's hydrolipid balance even after prolonged exposure."

But products without SLS foam much worse. They do not wash out silicone, styling residues and heavy metals - for these purposes deep cleaning shampoos have long been invented, which all adherents of healthy hair need to use once a month. SLS-free products are ideal for those with frizzy hair: they do not lift scales and do not wash out keratin.

And Vita also draws attention to the fact that sulfate-free shampoos will not cure you of dandruff (and which remedies will cure, read the link), loss or irritation! They will simply reduce the risk of these unpleasant phenomena to a minimum.