What ingredients in cosmetics are a thing of the past? How to select products with acids? Are parabens really harmful? BeautyHack asked two experts to answer important questions about cosmetic ingredients and their benefits (and harms) for humans.
Anna Sharova
Practicing cosmetic chemist (@anna_sharova_pro), technologist, creator of SharovaPro body and hair care cosmetics.
What preservatives in cosmetics should be avoided and why?
Pay attention to the fact that the composition does not contain long-chain parabens with roots "Butyl", "Isobutyl", "Pentil" and so on (other parabens are not harmful and are commonly used in cosmetics). The European Cosmetic Union has banned their use since 2012 due to a proven pseudo-estrogenic effect (i.e., the effect on the reproductive function of women). However, cosmetics manufacturers can still be guilty of using long-chain parabens in about 0.1% of the input. It is convenient: funds with them have a longer shelf life.
Another unwanted component is Bronopol (2-bromo-2-nitro-1,3-propanediol). A preservative containing bromine is not good for the skin and the body as a whole. Especially if it is found in leave-in products. Meanwhile, it is not prohibited, it is just a shame to use it. Bronopol can cause allergies, dermatitis and interfere with the functioning of cellular systems.
Why are mineral oils added to cosmetics?
It's cheap and convenient for the manufacturer! Technically, they are easy to add to the formulation of products, they do not freeze, do not go rancid, they mix well with water in two-phase products, in contrast to fatty oils.
Are mineral oils harmful to humans?
They are not so much harmful as useless.
Note that often sticky, greasy body products with mineral oils in the composition do not provide any benefit, do not moisturize or nourish the skin.
You put it on the skin, it is sticky, everything is in oil, but if you wash it off, the skin is still dry. In addition, mineral oil is comedogenic, meaning it clogs pores.
But don't confuse mineral oils with artificial and essential emollient oils. For example, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (a coconut oil derivative) is very good! This component softens the skin, nourishes and regenerates it.
Can people with oily skin use mineral oil products?
I do not advise. I have already voiced the first reason above - an extra attack on the pores. It is already difficult for the skin, why spoil its life with petroleum products: paraffins and vaseline (that is, mineral) oil.
What is the role of vegetable oils in cosmetics?
Vegetable oils provide nutrition and hydration at the same time. Solubilized oil (that is, it has passed the stage of dissolution under the action of surfactants) allows the skin to receive an impressive part of the nutrition it needs. Look for fatty oils of olive, avocado, almond, wheat germ, shea (karite), coconut in creams.
Why are silicones added to cosmetics?
Most often, the texture of products with silicones seems downright velvet to us! Creams with them are evenly distributed over the skin without streaks. Volatile silicones are also often used to make two-phase products.
Silicone and water are gorgeous combined, silicone (the oily part of the product) dissolves cosmetics, and water removes the film and excess fat from the skin.
Despite many controversial opinions, these components are not capable of causing harm. However, their concentration in the composition is of great importance. More silicones in creams, less in shampoos.
Which silicones are considered the safest?
Every day there are more and more types of silicones. But the most common and safe ones are Dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane.
Where should silicones be on the list of ingredients for a product to be considered safe?
Approximately 4, 5 or 6 position in creams and in the middle of the list of ingredients - in shampoos.
Which fragrances can cause severe allergic reactions?
You will be surprised, but essential oils come first! As well as fragrances with allergens in the composition. For example geraniol and citral (3,7-dimethyl-2,6-octadienal).
What is the difference between synthetic and natural fragrances?
The main difference is in color! Natural fragrance "almond" in a month will color the cream in the shade of cappuccino, artificial - will keep it snow-white throughout the shelf life. But you will not be able to understand in any way whether the product contains natural or synthetic perfume.
Both natural and synthetic fragrances can cause allergic reactions. If you have a tendency to allergies, choose products marked "hypoallergenic perfume composition." But of course, it is cheaper for many manufacturers to use an artificial fragrance with allergens.
Hypoallergenic fragrances are used for the production of cosmetics for children, products for pregnant women and lactating women, and products for intimate hygiene.
What ingredients in deodorants are actually harmful?
Aluminum chlorohydrate is criticized by many. But research on the possible harm is still underway, and they are in no hurry to exclude the component from the composition of cosmetics. I am a technologist, so I stand for the reality and effectiveness of recipes! And I must say that Aluminum chlorohydrate works great in antiperspirants.
Which alcohols in cosmetics are safe?
Ceto Stearyl Alcohol and Cetyl Alcohol. They facilitate mixing of components, regulate their viscosity, do not irritate the skin and create a moisture-retaining film. These alcohols are found in balms, conditioners, hair masks, lotions, creams, and solid deodorants. Fatty alcohols are a common ingredient in thick, dense winter products.
What sulfates should be avoided in cosmetics?
Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) actually dry out the skin a lot.
But SLES is currently the most economical and efficient surfactant. With reasonable input, it will be completely safe. If SLES is part of a surfactant composition, then it will be on the 3rd, 4th or 5th place in the list of ingredients. In this position, it will not harm the skin!
What surfactants are considered the softest?
Some of the softest and most expensive are sodium lauryl apple amino acids (Sodium Cocoyl Apple Amino Acids) and sodium lauryl oat amino acids (Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids). They even passed the test for irritation of the mucous membrane of the eyes. Not annoying!
How to choose products with acids in the composition?
Focus on the problem and consult with a beautician. Most of the products behave very well on the skin and are non-aggressive. I advise you to pay attention to glycolic, malic, lactic acids - some kind of bestsellers. All of them qualitatively accelerate cell regeneration, exfoliate dead particles, and renew the skin.
Ferulic acid products are gaining popularity now. It protects the skin from photoaging, helps in the treatment of hyperpigmentation, and soothes inflamed skin. This is why ferulic acid is often accompanied by vitamin C in formulas - together they work towards even more active whitening.
What acids are needed for oily skin?
For oily skin, I recommend active glycolic acid. It brightens, renews, helps clogged pores, effectively removes dead cells and helps in the fight against wrinkles.
Light acid peels are also needed for dry skin - the problems of pigmentation and age concern everyone.
It is believed that hyaluronic acid in the composition of the care cannot penetrate deep into the skin, which means it does not work. Is this so and is this component important in the composition of cosmetics?
It is hyaluronic acid that can! And sodium hyaluronate (Sodium hyaluronate), which can often be found in cosmetics, cannot.
But hyaluronic acid needs a conductor - hydrolyzed glucosaminoglycans (Chondroitin sulfate, β-glucan, for example). And most often you will not find them in the composition of creams during the day with fire. But hyaluronic acid itself is also important, it moisturizes, even the stratum corneum.
What are the main ingredients of moisturizers?
Here is a standard scheme: water, fatty part, assets. For effective moisturizing, creams should not contain mineral oil, but a good active range is needed: trimethylglycine (Betaine), panthenol (panthenol), mannan cognac (Konjac glucomannane).
What is the difference between day and night creams?
Day creams often have more silicones and artificial oils, but fewer assets. In the night, on the contrary, they add more fatty oils (with the exception of night remedies for the eyes!) And active ingredients, less silicones and artificial oils. Keep in mind that at night the skin is the most grateful and receptive to care.
Why is it important to pay attention to the acidity level of products?
The acidity level plays an important role in feminine intimate hygiene and hair products.
The more acidic (i.e. pH 6.9 and below), the safer and healthier for your hair.
In the case of other products, this is not so critical, but on the other hand: few people want to wash their face with alkaline products.
What components in cosmetics really cope with pigmentation?
I believe that this is chromabrite from Lipotec. It is referred to as Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate. I personally cured them a couple of difficult cases.
What is the role of squalane and squalene in cosmetics? In what means can they be found?
The difference between the two is in the production method and the type of bonds in the molecules. Squalane has single bonds in molecules, is produced from vegetable oil and is more commonly used in the cosmetics industry. And the source of squalene is shark liver. The main functions of both are hydration, regeneration and moisture retention. Therefore, squalane and squalene can be found in face serums, masks, creams for dry and sensitive skin, lotions for problem skin.
What peptides in cosmetics work and why?
Their whole army! Everyone works according to their own principle. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, responsible for facial expressions, prevents the formation of the SNARE-25 complex, which is involved in the release of the neurotransmitter acetylcholine and prevents the muscle from contracting. Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10 stimulates collagen synthesis and fibroblast division, CopperTripeptide-1 accelerates regeneration, Myristoyl Tripeptide-31 protects against free radicals - they have a very broad spectrum of action.
Is there any benefit from snail mucin in cosmetics? How does he work?
They say that mucin works wonders in cosmetics, I consider it a regular extract, with a dry matter content of 0.2%, and I don't see anything super unique. The main tasks of this component are anti-stress and hydration.
What components are currently considered the most expensive in face creams?
For example, the whitening chromobraite, which I described above, hyaluronic acid, various forms of vitamin C, peptides in working concentrations.
What components in the composition of cosmetics are a thing of the past?
TEA (triethanolamine), long chain parabens, stearin, polyacrylic acid. These are components from the "already ashamed" category. They have been replaced with more modern acidity regulators, preservatives, new emulsifiers and bases, thickeners.
Svetlana Grebenkova
Creative Director of PROmakeup Laboratory
Is talcum powder harmful in cosmetics?
Talc is the only mineral that is allowed in baby cosmetics because it is hypoallergenic and completely safe. It is not for nothing that world cosmetic brands such as Charlotte Tilbury, Tom Ford, Armani use talcum powder in their products. Talc gives cosmetics a very pleasant tactile sensation. In nature, it has a plate structure, so it is so smoothly applied and easily shaded. Talcum shadows are the most persistent. When do cosmetics peel off the skin? When oil dissolves. And talc, as a mineral, has a very high oil absorption coefficient. That is why talcum powder and talcum powder so effectively absorb moisture and grease.
Does talcum powder clog pores?
I talk a lot with doctors, chemists all over the world - not a single person has yet told me that there is a scientific evidence base about the comedogenicity of talc. There is no mixer in the industry that can break a mineral down to a size smaller than a pore. This means that it will never fail in time and will not lead to its blockage.
What is the function of parabens in the composition of funds?
Parabens are currently the only broad-spectrum preservatives. They work as an antibacterial agent against infections of any kind. Is it bad? Of course not.
Preservatives are added to formulations that contain water - it is in them that microbiology can develop and live. The water formula must be very well protected with a preservative, and in lipstick or, for example, shadows, they are not needed. But they are needed in mascara. As a person involved in development, I will always choose paraben-based mascara, because mascara comes in direct contact with the mucous membrane. Only parabens relieve the remedy from mold, mildew, virus - from any dirt.
Parabens are safe - they are the world's most studied preservative. As a person who knows the manufacturing industry from the inside, I can say for sure: it is safer to take an ingredient that has been studied for 20 years than a preservative, which was recognized as a preservative yesterday.
Moreover, the legislation is structured like this - if there is even a suspicion that some ingredient can harm health, it immediately falls into the black list, and manufacturing companies around the world should exclude it from their compositions. If there was even the slightest suspicion that these preservatives are carcinogenic or lead to oncology, they would have already been banned.
Can adults use baby cosmetics?
Many people like to take products from children's cosmetics for themselves in home care, but this cannot be done. A child's skin pH is 7.7 units, while ours is 5.5. Vaseline is often contained in baby creams - it is allowed, because the child has practically no pores as a living element, they cannot be clogged.
Children often experience loss of moisture, which is why mineral oils are added to children's products. They create a locking film on the skin, which should never be created on the skin of an adult. Johnson's Baby was even banned from advertising baby oil for adults.
Photo: Istock.com
