2023 Author: Jessica James | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-11-26 15:47
Perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova - about the best fragrances for the fall: take note!
Dōjima, Mona di Orio
Dojima is the Osaka area, where the largest rice exchange in the country was founded in the early 17th century. Rice was the basis of the diet of any Japanese, they were provided with large loans and given rations to the samurai who maintain order in the country - in short, there was no grain more important. But Dōjima is something more lyrical than a voucher for the importance of a crop. This is a grain of rice seen by a Japanese painter of the Edo era: green freshness that lingers in it until spring, milk warmth from tueska with ready-made cereals and fine powder from rice husks on the hands of market “rippers” who hulled the grain before selling it.
Outrageous, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
Until recently, Outrageous was only sold at New York department store Barneys, but is now available in all Frédéric Malle corners - and is provoking cautious interest among brand lovers. Much has been written that Malle is essentially designing a perfume wardrobe for all occasions: Cologne Bigarade is a fresh shirt, Eau de Magnolia is a wrap-around silk dress that is elegant yet relaxed, and Portrait of a Lady is Saturday latex for those who blow off steam in red-lit clubs. The latest release, the aldehyde Superstitious, hit the shelves in a luxurious faux fur coat in a cloud of static electricity, and Outrageous that arrived next - a fresh cut of a green apple, a mint chill of toothpaste, a light perfume of washing powder - nothing more than a perfect white T-shirt: you can go to the gym, and the Bolshoi Theater.
Noir Anthracite, Tom Ford
In terms of timbre - matte, warm, deep - Noir Anthracite is closest to the Private Blend collection, but, fortunately, it is included in the less expensive Signature. What It Is: A lovely green chypre with a spicy pepper dressing, laid out on a beautiful and fragrant dark wood plate. For those who do not like galbanum, a fragrant resin with a bitter scent of green leaves, it is better to bypass Noir Anthracite.
In recent years, the Carven brand has experienced a new heyday: in 2013, the classic 1946 fragrance, Ma Griffe, was re-released, in the same year, Le Parfum by Francis Kurkdjian was released - clean, slightly soapy spring flowers, a year later - updated by Vétiver. In early autumn, the brand released a whole collection of completely new fragrances dedicated to the travels of the brand's founder, Madame Carven, from Brazil to India. By the way, Paris-Sao Paulo and Paris-Bangalore are very charming, but Paris-Mascate, a distinctly vintage blend of precious oriental balms, makes a special impression. I could have settled on the receptors with a dark, sticky resin - but now they are washed by the freshness of pink water from a fountain under an old fig tree.
Santo Incienso, The Different Company
In fact, the new Santo Incienso is Le 15, a small edition of The Different Company in 2015. "Fifteen", as it was then lovingly called by the perfumery community, was quickly sold out: it is really very good and, in addition, is true to the original style of the brand - there is air, and light, and a sense of spaciousness in Le 15, as in the first, authorship of Jean-Claude Ellen and his daughters, brand compositions. Now the fragrance is called Santo Incienso and immediately gives out the main character - Palo Santo, a South American tree, from whose wood an essential oil with a powerful, slightly smoked aroma is extracted. The perfumer Alexandra Monet does something amazing - he raises this "elephant" above the ground and makes him dance in the ascending streams of incense and myrrh.
Wonder Bouquet, Mugler
Wonder Bouquet is the ninth fragrance of Les Exceptions, a more expensive collection by the house of Mugler. But if with the first compositions everything is more or less clear: here is a wine glass, here is a chypre, here is leather, and here is the East - rethought and nevertheless recognizable perfume genres, then the new one is an unusual chimera. It owes most of its genes to the white flowers - jasmine and orange blossom, but what makes Wonder Bouquet a real “wander” is a strange note of yeast-leavened culture: it smells like exotic flowers were mixed into a silky, elastic dough.
Tuberose Le Soir, Aerin
Aerin is a perfumery brand for women with a sanguine temperament and impeccable manners: not a hair will come out of Evening Rose or Iris Meadow. Against the background of these perfect haircuts and smooth bangs, the new Tuberose Le Soir seems a little disheveled, as if she spent several hours in bed - with someone interesting: everything that the main character is rich in - menthol greens, coconut cream, a stupefying night haze of white flowers - is warmed here the wet, carnivorous breath of the musks.
Nuit de Bakelite, Naomi Goodsir
And one more tuberose in our selection is green and poisonous, like the fumes of an underground source. Julien Raskinet, Naomi Goodseer's favorite perfumer, joined a large company, and the brand, which basically works only with independent "noses", had to look for a new author. It - she - turned out to be Isabelle Doyenne, a longtime acquaintance of Goodseer, who was the perfumer of the Annick Goutal brand for many years. Duyenne has always done well with green scents (think Un Matin d'Orage or Nuit d'Hadrien), but in Nuit de Bakelite she has outdone herself: this tuberose emits radiation like emerald kryptonite.
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The vegan lifestyle is becoming more popular every year. But if it is quite simple to choose products and even cosmetics that correspond to the term vegan-friendly, then things are more complicated with aromas. Before you buy
Citrus-herbal aroma, collected from various greens - mint, shiso, bamboo and eucalyptus, sea vanilla with incense and wood chips in a strong brine of waves and other summer aromas in a new material by perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova
Ylang-ylang is one of the most important natural ingredients in perfumery: it is often placed in the center of flower compositions, and it is also used to emphasize the beauty of woody odorants in such fragrances as, for example, Bois des Îles, Chanel