2023 Author: Jessica James | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-11-26 15:47
"Liquid Crystal", "Black Stone", "Rose Quartz" and other precious fragrances in the selection of perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova.
Eau de parfum Black Tourmaline, Olivier Durbano
In Russia, the Olivier Durbano brand, which is looking for common meanings in perfumery and minerals, had a difficult time: distributors changed, but in the end no one was able to explain to the customer why Nephrite, Rock Crystal and Rose Quartz were good. And the good thing is: the perfumer Durbano brilliantly translates the physical properties of minerals - color, ebb, density - into ephemeral smells. For example, black tourmaline, aka sherl, is opaque and has a deep black color. What is Durbano doing in Black Tourmaline? Catching up with the smoked, impenetrable smoke of autumn bonfires, behind which you can hardly guess the matte black forest. Remnants of the former luxury are still in the Aromateka and Perfumer stores, so hurry up to try it.
Eau de parfum Liquid Crystal, Agonist
And here's another loss for the Russian perfumery market: the misunderstood Swedish brand Agonist is leaving the country. True, it will leave until spring - while the entire line is exhibited in stores, including "Liquid Crystal", a beautiful glass in the Jicky style. Ice lavender is responsible for the iridescent, really crystal effect here, but instead of the signature Guerlain “diaper”, as Jicky lovers call civet, Liquid Crystal has an elegant, slightly powdered amber in the base.
Perfume Cross of Asia, Orlov Paris
All the works of the French brand bear the names of famous diamonds ("Star of the Season", "Sea of Light", etc.), and some, together with real diamonds - right at the bottom of the bottle - are sold. In a word, Orlov Paris products could have been dismissed as another far-fetched concept if it had not been for Dominique Ropion, one of the most talented perfumers of our time. His Cross of Asia explores in detail, in the language of gemologists, all facets of ylang-ylang - notes of rose and green apple, animal skin tone and a recognizable hue of mint.
Eau de parfum Sexy Ruby, Michael Kors
They decided not to bring Sexy Ruby to Russia, perhaps because chypre, even such modernized ones, are traditionally not sold here. And this is a fruity chypre, and excellent: perfumer Pierre Negrin takes raspberries - the source of radioactive sweetness in many "compotes" of recent years - and places it, like a drop of light, in the center of a dense fruity-floral accord. Matte roses and ripe cherries acquire a satin sheen - the ruby is ignited from the inside.
Eau de parfum Citrine, Nest
Like most perfume brands that started with candles and room sprays, Nest makes comfortable fragrances without sharp corners, and Citrine is no exception. Its cut is a cabochon: the smooth surface is polished to a luster like a lollipop, and in all its glory reveals the transparent depth of the stone. The lemon tree flowers in Citrine do smell thinner, "more transparent" than the related orange blossom - partly acacia and green, immature jasmine; their sparkling freshness is accentuated by an aquatic accord of freesia and lotus and is reminiscent of a glass of well-chilled champagne. By the way, this is how the best pale golden citrines are called champagne.
Eau de parfum Black Gemstone, Stephane Humbert Lucas
The name does not quite correspond to the truth: "Black Stone" - smoky, leather, balsamic - indeed seems to be a clot of darkness, but in its depths, like in aventurine, golden sparks flicker. The lemon that the perfumer uses is far from cool citrus colognes - it is a hot ball of sunshine full of natural sweetness and light. Smoke, resins and juicy fruits make a wonderful counterpoint: several independent, but simultaneously sounding voices merge into one harmonious whole.
Eau de parfum Maî tre Joaillier, Extrait d'Atelier
The name of the brand is translated from French as “The Smell of Crafts”: Shoemakers, tailors and jewelers have already fallen into the sphere of interests of Chiara Ronzani, the creator of Maître Joaillier. If with the first two professions everything is more or less clear - where there are shoes, there are leather and suede, and the tailor predictably smells like freshly ironed cotton - then the jeweler is not so obvious. What is the smell of his tools and supplies? Lamps, drills and ovens? Sweet fir balsam surrounded by hot metallic notes.
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