About career
In high school, I attended modeling courses, where we, among other things, were taught to paint ourselves. From the very first makeup lesson it dawned on me: this is what I want to do! When the courses were over, I grabbed every opportunity to practice: I painted my friends and even asked to shoot as a makeup artist.
A couple of years later, I got a job at the Bulgarian cosmetics company Alen Mac as an assistant to the head of marketing and advertising, while studying at the evening department at a financial college. Then she worked as a consultant-make-up artist in the popular "Multimark" department in GUM.
Having received a higher education, I realized that I needed to move on, and began to purposefully search the Internet for a cosmetics manufacturing company: I was no longer interested in working in sales. And then I came across the site of cosmetics "Art-Visage". Seeing that they have their own production (Art-Visage is not the only brand of the holding), I immediately wrote to them, proposing her candidacy to the marketing department. Alas, there were no vacancies. For two months I sent letters to the HR department - and, finally, I was called for an interview. The commercial director set a condition: my position is if I take courses for makeup artists. I have long dreamed of studying at the Forum school, which I graduated at the expense of the company.
For a year at the company, I studied the production of decorative cosmetics, while traveling around the regions as a trainer. After that, my long career as a makeup artist began. I worked in corners and at large-scale metropolitan events, and also was in the teams of almost all the most famous luxury and mass market brands. In addition, I taught at the Forum and continued to study myself.
A few years later, I came up with the idea to create an educational project for make-up artists PROvolshebstvo, within the framework of which beauty industry experts could share useful information with less experienced colleagues.
PROmakeup Laboratory
Although I quit my permanent job in a production and cosmetics holding, I was often invited to the company as a production consultant. Over the ten years of our cooperation, I have deeply studied the topic of cosmetics - from production to the use of ready-made products. Knowing about my rich experience and skills, fellow makeup artists constantly asked when, finally, I would decide to create my own brand. I rejected: after all, this is a great responsibility, and my schedule is tight, and creating my own line of cosmetics requires full immersion in the process. However, the idea stuck in my head and waited in the wings.
Three years ago, I agreed with the head of the Art-Visage production laboratory, Ekaterina Klyshinskaya, to conduct master classes on the composition of decorative cosmetics. Until now, these classes are wildly popular, because the beauty industry does not stand still, new formulas and technologies are constantly appearing. Why would a makeup artist know about this? But, for example, one foundation fits perfectly on the base, while the other, well, just cannot be “made friends” with it. If you look at the composition, it becomes clear that the tonal bases have completely different formulas and, no matter how hard you beat, one of them will always "roll" from the base - at the molecular level.
I attended all of Catherine's lectures, and my knowledge was enough to correlate the manufacturer's promises with a real product. Alas, cosmetic companies often embellish the merits of their products, so I finally understood: something needs to be changed.
This summer, literally the next day after the end of the annual cooperation with INGLOT, I received a call from the company that owns the Art-Visage brand and offered to create a new brand of decorative cosmetics for make-up artists for the holding. Such a chance could not be missed, so I readily agreed.
As a creative director, I had to clearly formulate the task for the technologists, and at first it was not easy for all of us. Usually a sample product is brought to the laboratory and asked to produce something similar, but we practically did not have any reference points. Our goal was not to make another good product. As a creator, it was interesting for me to present a quality budget alternative to market leaders, or to bring together all the best from the bestsellers and translate into one tool. We decided not to waste time on design development, otherwise the funds would have increased in price. I just named three colors - black, white and silver - and chose the most laconic option from the designer's suggestions. We decided to make all the inscriptions in English, because make-up artists have formed their own professional slang and in a hurry it is much easier for them to say "steam fix",than "make-up setting spray".
Now, when PROmakeup cosmetics are already on sale and have received many positive reviews, I can proudly say that some products turned out to be unique, while others are simply ideal in their segment.
About plans
Of course, we are planning to expand the range. More recently, we have as many as three new highlighter shades, which we presented at the last InterCHARM exhibition, and from November 1 they will be available for online ordering. In the near future, the PROmakeup line will be replenished with three compact contouring products and two more shades of bronzer.
Lipsticks and shadows will also be - now we are working on the texture. Our technologists are also working on a matte make-up base and transparent loose powder. I'll tell you a secret, there is no such powder on our market yet: this is a new Korean development that literally polishes the face. You don't even need to use foundation! By the way, I have very high requirements for professional foundations, so the work on the formula and shades will take a long time.
Eyebrow gels of our Art-Visage brand have long won the love of professionals, so you don't even want to create a fundamentally new formula - perhaps we'll just improve the existing one.
About funds
Compact highlighter GLOWING SKIN: When I posted on Instagram a swatch of our first highlighter in shade 103, many refused to believe that this was not a cream product, but a compact. Indeed, usually only bold textures give such a correct glow without pronounced sparkles. True, here we encountered difficulties in production: we could not find a suitable mode in the press. It is worth changing the pressure a little - and the product becomes completely different, although the ingredients are the same. By the way, it is no coincidence that I refused the usual packaging. Firstly, the weight of the products and the ability to place them in the palette are important for makeup artists. Many people wear a refill directly in the blister, which practically does not take up space in the case. Secondly, the case significantly increases the cost, and I wanted to create truly budget cosmetics without saving on ingredients.
Micellar water for removing make-up with CLEAN SKIN foaming agent: The average concentration of surfactants in products popular among make-up artists ranges from 2 to 4%, while in our foam it is only 1.5%. This means that with the same effectiveness, the product does not irritate even sensitive and inflamed skin. The foam uses the same preservative as the contact lens fluid. In the laboratory, Ekaterina Klyshinskaya, during testing, even buried it in her eye, so that CLEAN SKIN does not cause discomfort even on sensitive eyes, and is also suitable for those who wear lenses. After removing the makeup with a cotton pad with foam, the face remains dry, which saves time for the makeup artist. Initially, the product was not intended for removing waterproof makeup, but many acquaintances and customers write that the foam copes with it.
Radiant Skin Foundation RADIANCE SKIN: Many radiant creams do not work well with foundations. They dissolve each other, mix - and after a couple of hours something terrible is happening on the face. As a rule, professional foundations are made on the basis of an inverse emulsion (a water molecule surrounded by oil molecules), so we made a base with a similar formula so that the layers of funds adhere reliably, but do not dissolve each other. What's more, our foundation works well with both silicone and gel tones.
Initially, the base was created as a remedy for oily and combination skin, therefore, it contains a high content of powders with a high oil absorption capacity, which absorb sebum and prevent make-up "float". For dry skin, I recommend adding a couple of drops of oil to the product so that there is no feeling of tightness.
Another plus of the PROmakeup base: it mixes perfectly with any tonal foundations, and also you can use it to make fashionable strobing.
SUNLIGHT SKIN compact matte bronzer: We are used to the fact that professional cosmetics are always highly pigmented. But, in my opinion, it is better to go through with a delicate bronzer several times than to immediately apply the stain. Our product can be layered as much as you like - and it will shade perfectly, will not give a bruise effect and will not go with bald spots. What's more, bronzer contains powders with high oil absorption, so that it absorbs excess sebum, which keeps lines clean and does not blur even on oily skin all day long.
PERFECT SKIN Makeup Base Oil:This is my personal favorite. I got the idea of creating such an oil when Scott Barnes made bright contouring models with neglected acne in a master class, and then dropped a little oil on the brush and literally polished the face. The contrasting stripes disappeared somewhere - and the result was just perfect, radiant and healthy skin. I immediately wanted something similar in my arsenal, but I found that all similar products on the market are made on the basis of paraffin oils, which prevent the skin from breathing and prevent normal moisture exchange. I suggested to Ekaterina Klyshinskaya, the head of the laboratory, to create her own formula based on natural ingredients. And we did it! The PERFECT SKIN base contains only non-comedogenic oils that do not clog pores and allow the skin to breathe. Moreover, our oil is also a care,because some of the nutritional ingredients (including antioxidant and anti-inflammatory) are absorbed into the skin, and some remain on the surface, giving the face a sleek look and protecting against aggressive environmental influences. We've also added shimmery particles to the product, so shake the bottle for extra shine.
Lip scrub SOFT LIPS: Several years ago the Art-Visage brand released a limited edition lip scrub, which instantly gained popularity among makeup artists. We took its formula as a basis and increased the concentration of polishing particles - we got an SOS-agent for chapped lips with a Photoshop effect. Biometric peptide and natural cocoa butter heal cracks literally overnight, and also perfectly prepare lips for makeup.
STEAM FIX Spray Fixer : First-generation make-up fixtures, as I call them, create a film on the face that shines unnaturally in light and leaves an unpleasant sensation on the skin. Our spray works like a mesh that is comfortable on the face and looks natural. Thanks to natural polysaccharides - analogs of hyaluronic acid - the product also relieves the feeling of tightness, so that they can refresh makeup throughout the day. I would also like to tell you about the Italian atomizer, which, by the way, is used by luxury brands. It creates not a stream, but a cloud of the product, so that the layer is very thin and the face does not remain wet even when applied closely.
Interview and text: Maria Stefanova Photo: Asya Zabavskaya
