2023 Author: Jessica James | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-08-25 04:20
Hairdresser-stylist Evgeny Shatokhin (@yauhen) told why it is impossible to do complex coloring at home, how to choose the percentage of oxidizer and learn how to read the farb card.
“To paint a complex home is an impossible mission. I'll tell you a secret, not every experienced colorist can do it. It is also better not to try to get some shades on your own: blond - you risk burning your hair, light brown - despite the seemingly simplicity of color, this is a very moody shade. Chestnut, red, black, hazel - the likelihood of spoiling these colors is small. But there are also some nuances here."
Rule # 1: don't ignore the farb card
The seller must provide it! On it you can see how the shade will look on the hair. Choosing a color based on the image on the package is risky.
Farb-card numbers consist of two digits. The first is your shade. There are only ten of them: 1 - black, 10 - light blond. The second digit after the dot indicates which subtone was added to the base color. For example, if you see code 6.3, it means that the base is dark blond, and the additional shade is chestnut.
If you are dyeing your hair for the first time, choose a shade that is a shade lighter - the shade can look much darker on them.
Rule # 2: choose the right oxidizer
The higher the percentage of oxidizing agent, the more persistent the staining. The most optimal is 2-3%. Even if the shade is too dark, it will wash off. When a 6% oxidizing agent is used for staining, it is possible to get rid of the unwanted color only with the help of a "wash". In addition, it is more aggressive - it is contraindicated for damaged, porous and brittle hair.
Rule # 3: do not wash your hair before coloring
It is advisable not to wash your hair the day before dyeing. This is the case when excess sebum and styling products play "for" and not "against" you, protecting the scalp from the aggressive effects of the oxidizer.
Rule # 4: apply paint in two steps
To get an even tone, apply the paint first to the root zone, stand for 20-25 minutes and only then distribute over the entire length. This is the only way to achieve a uniform color when staining at home.
Rule # 5: don't change manufacturer
This applies to those cases when you decide to change the shade. After using Korean natural dyes or henna, for example, there is a great chance to get a reddish, bluish or greenish undertone - it is impossible to guess how the paint will behave after contact with a “competitor”.
Rule number 6: add a natural shade to the paint if there is gray hair
It is better to dye depigmented hair in the salon. If you have a small amount of gray hair, add dye with your natural shade to the mixture (even if you dye it black, and your natural one is light brown). Proportion: 3: 1.
Rule # 7: follow instructions
If it says that the paint must be kept for forty minutes - not a minute more! You risk burning your hair or getting an unwanted shade. Before applying the dye, apply a greasy cream to the skin along the hair growth zone so that later you do not have to rub it, hoping to wash away dark spots.
Rule # 8: test the dye on a thin strand
Separate a thin section of hair that you can donate. Apply the dye and hold for the prescribed time. Rinse it off. Dry it. Evaluate the result. Do not forget to run an allergy test on your elbow. Apply the dye and watch the reaction. Remember: hair dye can contain strong allergens.
Rule # 9: Don't Ignore Hair Thickness
The instructions usually indicate a period of time from 20 to 40 minutes. Twenty will be enough if you have fine, porous hair. 40 - the maximum time for owners of thick and hard hair.
Rule # 10: after staining, use a mask or balm
Even if the percentage of oxidizer was small, the hair was attacked. They need special care. Apply a mask or balm and then rinse with cold water for extra shine.
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