Reaction check
According to statistics, every third woman uses self-tanning products, and all products in this category are produced at 100 million euros per year! Almost all of these products contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a component that reacts with the protein of the skin, due to which it darkens. The flip side of the coin: this component removes fluid from cells, which means it contributes to the formation of wrinkles, clogs pores and causes allergic reactions (due to toxicity).
American dermatologists and oncologists believe that self-tanning is much more harmful than direct sunlight. The effect of the latter is the Maillard reaction in a simplified form (a chemical reaction between sugar and an amino acid that occurs when heated). A good example is baking bread, when the color, smell and taste of the product change under the influence of high temperature. When using self-tanning, the same processes occur in the body. The only difference is that the reaction rate is so low that its products are almost immediately excreted by the body, reminding of itself with a bronze skin tone. But over time, the level of damaged proteins increases, which can lead to severe disorders and irreversible changes in tissues.
In 2012, scientists from George Washington University made the assumption that DHA can cause DNA damage, and its inhalation provokes the development of cancerous tumors.
A single use of a self-tanner is unlikely to have a noticeable negative effect on the skin. But regular oxidation (this is the process that occurs on the surface of the skin when interacting with dihydroxyacetone), for example, throughout the year, leads to the formation of wrinkles and can provoke the development of skin cancer.
Yellow dwarf
Dihydroxyacetone has been used in the production of cosmetics for a long time. In the 1950s, Eva Wittgenstein (the doctor to whom we owe self-tanning) tried to use DHA to treat diabetes in children. This did not give positive results, and the studies were closed. But in the process of taking drugs with DHA, it turned out that the tablets stain the area around the mouth in yellow, and then another use was invented for the substance.
Until recently, it was believed that dihydroxyacetone is an absolutely harmless substance that participates in the natural metabolism in the body. However, in 2012, scientists from George Washington University made the assumption that DHA can cause DNA damage, and its inhalation provokes the development of cancerous tumors. Toxicologist Ray Panettiere believes that DHA sprays and aerosols are especially dangerous: they can provoke asthma and other lung diseases. This is why salon treatments like Fake Bake cannot be done without safety glasses and a nose and mouth mask. In addition, paint booths must have excellent ventilation. However, salons often disregard the rules, which is not surprising, because the stripes remain from the masks.
Erythrulose is a less toxic, but more expensive component, therefore it is rarely used in its pure form - mainly only in combination with dihydroxyacetone.
However, DHA also has advocates. Cosmetologist Ian Taylor, for example, is confident that with superficial exposure, dihydroxyacetone does not harm the skin. And for the appearance of wrinkles, he blames other ingredients that are used by manufacturers of self-tanners, that is, low-quality synthetic raw materials, similar in effect to a solvent.
Spoil all the raspberries
As soon as the ecowave reached self-tanners, erythrulose (raspberry sugar) was used in their production. This substance has the same effect as dihydroxyacetone. Erythrulose reacts with the amino groups of keratin on the skin surface, changing the color of the upper layer of the epidermis. However, this happens after about 2.5 days (when using dihydroxyacetone - after 5.5 hours).
Erythrulose is a less toxic, but more expensive component, therefore it is rarely used in its pure form - mainly only in combination with dihydroxyacetone. By the way, in some atozans, the harm from which is quite insignificant, erythrulose acts as a moisturizer, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent.
Text: Natalia Kapitsa
