Despite the fact that we have already said goodbye to summer and warm sun rays, we should not forget about the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation on our skin. After all, the skin is exposed to the aggressive action of UV rays all year round and it does not depend on the air temperature. In winter, the sun can be as bright as in summer. Even when the sun is not visible at all and the sky is overcast, up to 40% of UV radiation reaches the earth. Galina Ryazanova, chief technologist of the laboratory of modern cosmetics MIXIT, will tell you about how to protect yourself from the negative effects of radiation and choose the right product with SPF.
UV radiation is currently considered one of the most aggressive environmental factors and is the main culprit in premature skin aging. Therefore, before going outside, it is very important not to forget about applying a product with SPF (we wrote about which sunscreens the stars choose here).
All SPF products must be selected for specific purposes (daily products, change of climatic zone, altitude, the presence of additional reflective surfaces - water, sand, snow, etc.). On average, in Russia there are absolutely enough SPF 30 products for daily use (we wrote about the best SPF products for the city here).
Is it harmful to use sunscreen on a regular basis?
It is not UV radiation itself that is harmful to the skin, but its excess (remember the synthesis of vitamin D, which occurs only in the presence of light). Unfortunately, due to the expansion of the industrial sector, the ozone layer is becoming excessively thinned and more UV radiation is transmitted, so there is no danger or harm to the skin in constantly using products with UV filters.
What are physical and chemical filters? What are their pros and cons?
All UV filters are divided into 2 types: physical (barrier) and chemical. Let's see what they are and what are their pros and cons.
Physical filters are very small inorganic particles that reflect and scatter UV rays. They have the highest level of safety, are unable to penetrate the skin, and work exclusively on the surface of the stratum corneum. However, there are also disadvantages - they are prone to precipitation, and are also capable of creating a white effect with high protection factors. In addition, physical filters are very difficult to combine with a variety of other components.
Chemical filters absorb and convert the absorbed energy into heat. This type has a large number of advantages, among them: pleasant sensing of the final product (ease of application, no bleaching), the ability to create the maximum number of combinations with different levels of protection against different types of radiation, excellent compatibility with the vast majority of other components of the formulation, as well as a fairly high level security. There are not many downsides: this is a potential phototoxicity, as well as a potential ability to penetrate into the stratum corneum.
What ingredients in sunscreen cosmetics should you pay attention to?
The current state of the environment requires the use of both types of filters in sunscreen cosmetics. Typically, good products contain a combination of UVA and UVB filters, both physical and chemical, with varying solubility and degree of stability. There is a general rule - the larger the protection factor, the fewer additional active useful components, since the load is very high, the filters will have to protect against destruction, including the assets - here it is better to avoid or minimize the presence of any components that can somehow increase the photosensitivity of the skin. This also applies to dyes and a number of fragrances, although a completely fragrance-free product with UV filters has a very specific aroma. These products often also contain an antioxidant complex to maximize skin protection.
Today, there are a lot of materials in the public domain about this or that harm of different chemical UV filters, however, there are very serious systems for the analysis and certification of such means, so the choice is always up to the consumer. A good, self-respecting manufacturer always takes care of its customers and tries to create the most effective and safe drugs.